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Wow! That is cheap! I put my bike project aside and am looking for a parts bike.

As for checking the thin wires, I don't know how to do that when the controller is connected.. They are so thin to try to make contact by probing through the insulation, and the plugs don't seem to provide access. I do apologize if all this sounds very elementary, but somehow I've managed to...

The controller was disconnected when I did that test. I did test and got continuity among all three thick wires, controller disconnected. Also,the wheel got progressively harder to rotate backward when I connected 2, then 3, of the main thick wires, controller disconnected.

But if I put one lead of the multimeter (set to Ohms) on one of the thick wires,(yellow, blue, or green), , and the other on the outside of the hub motor (where the spokes connect), I'm showing continuity at some wheel positions. Is this what you'd expect?

I checked for continuity between the phase wires and the hub of the motor. On each on, blue, green and yellow, there was continuity (a short?) for approximately one third of the wheel rotation. Surely that can't be right?

No walk mode.

Thank you Harry for your considered reply. No, unfortunately, the bike doesn't have a 9-pin disconnect, or any disconnect for that matter. I'm pretty sure the motor is fried, the windings are black. With my limited skills, I think the best course of action will be to keep on the lookout for a...

Thank you for your input. The motor turns backwards OK, albeit with some resistance. Does it have to be powered up to perform this test? How do I test continuity of the windings? I too suspect the motor is fried, but I'd like to be sure before throwing money and time into it. With regards to...

My Ancheer 26" Power Plus died on me after riding up a long grade. Just quit the electric propulsion, but the display remained lit like normal. No throttle or pedal assist. I tried a new controller to no avail. Can anyone help me diagnose this problem?