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New controller arrived from Canada and has been fitted , I tested it for first time today and its all working well again . I have US spec display allowing top speed of 32kph . The new Canadian spec controller is 18A , my uk controller as 15A . Top speed is the same but if feels like it has a bit...

My new controller from Amegoev in Canada had clear silicon potting and no holes . I tested it for first time today , everything working well again .

My problem was no power going to the motor - display , pas sensor , motor and battery are all ok , the controller was the problem ( diagnosed by electrical engineer at repair shop ) . They managed to repair it to a degree so the throttle was working , but not the peddle assist . I’m waiting for...

I have exactly the same problem - bike repair shop identified controller as problem but couldn’t fully repair it , throttle worked again but not PAS . I’ve ordered a new controller from Amego ev in Canada

Thanks for the suggestion , I’ve sent them an email . In the meanwhile , any other suggestions are welcome . If anyone knows of a European supplier the postage would be quicker / cheaper

The controller on my NCM Moscow isn’t working and the bike repair shop electrical engineer can’t fix it . Does anyone know where I can get one in the uk ( or anywhere else ) , or a possible alternative controller option . Thanks !

On my standard Moscow the power assist takes about half a turn of the pedals - use a low gear to set off as per a normal bike , and put power assist level above 1 ( 3 or 4 is good ) . The assist level is linked to speed and in level 1 it can cut off assist quickly . I have now fitted a thumb...

Just a thought that came to me - try disconnecting the cable from the brake lever to the display unit that cuts off the power to the motor

Hi , I’ve been riding Ncm Moscow for 3 years now , done about 4000 miles . I’m 80kg . I ride a lot of hills and rough trails . I’ve experienced no problems, it seems bulletproof. It’s a strong and solid bike ( Milano is basically the same , just a different frame configuration) . Hub motors are...

It’s just condensation under the screen caused by temperature changes , I’ve had that quite a few times . Like you say leaving in the sun dries it out . Shouldn’t be a problem, and you’ve got a spare display now ! The plug connector is very tight - I managed to separate it with gentle slight...

The PAS sensor is the black ring behind the left pedal where it fastens to the crank - it does sound like that could be the problem from what you have said . Maybe check it is firmly in place , the pressure wash might have moved it . Or take it off and dry it in the sun . It has a connector at...

Hi - a couple of ideas for you that might help . I have the suntour suspension seatpost on my standard Moscow. I found it transformed the feel of the bike especially over rough surfaces . You can basically just sit on the seat and it takes the strain , you don’t have to use your legs / arms as...

This is just on the regular display screen , not the settings menu . Also , If the trip computer is showing the trip distance holding the + button for 4 seconds will reset all the trip recordings to zero

5.4.2 KM/H & MPH Hold UP (+) for 8 seconds to enter the KM/H and MPH selection mode, then press UP (+) or DOWN (-) to switch between KM/H and MPH and M to confirm and exit.

I’ve got one of these on my Moscow . Agree with all the above - it greatly improves the overall suspension and feel of the bike over rough tracks - it easily manages surfaces / gradients now that were unrideable before , in terms of both comfort and handling .

I used Zoom xtech HB-100 hybrid hydraulic brakes , reasonably cheap on eBay, even cheaper on Ali express . Very easy to install - loosen brake cable fastener on old brake , undo the two bolts holding the old brake to the fork and remove it . Replace with the new brake ( it’s the same size and...

I used the spacers that came with the callipers , identical to he originals I think .

I see you have standard Moscow - I changed my brake pads easily by taking the whole brake mechanism of the fork - just unfasten the two bolts holding it in place . You could leave the brake cable attached but I take it off as it will need adjusting with the new pads in place anyway . I have...

Your “250 W” motor is already capable of putting out over 700 W ( 15a controller x 48v battery =720 W ) , its badged 250w for compliance . Upgrading to a slightly higher voltage battery would give you more power ( so more speed potentially ) but the motor itself will have a physical upper...

aH is a measure of battery capacity , a higher capacity battery will work fine and give you more range but it will be heavier .