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Exactly; I have a 48T chainring; though I still grind snow canyon climb. My loop is Kayenta to snow canyon, to veyo, to gunlock and home. I’m leaning towards Creo as the next bike.

Hello from Ivins your neighbor to the west. Our local bike shop Red rock bicycle are great folks to work with, they have good experience with the Tero. I considered buying one from them, but stuck for the Turbo Vado for the type of riding I prefer. Yes there are certainly advantages...

local bike shop where you can test, is the best answer. The turbo Vado is a hill eraser; it’s so smooth.

Totally agree with this

I have 2 batteries; the original 504wh and the larger 604wh (I have an older model than you). My average cadence is 82-85 with max being somewhere around 120. But I typically ride like I stole the bike. luckily we have local races and tours where I can focus my energy. I have prob...

Hard to say much from this, no cadence, or motor input. take it back to the shop and see what they say…. Range has sooo many factors; I ride much faster 22-23mph average, and I may (depending on how much help I’m asking the bike) only get 32miles on a battery. 52miles is the best I’ve ever had...

using Garmin or Strava to look into the data of the ride? Curious to see.

Swap away! We have 2 bikes, 3 batteries and the 3 have been used interchangeably.

Take your weight plus the bike weight as a value. Ride a flat stretch of road with the power off, but look at the power value displayed; this power value is all you at this point. Divide the bike weight from the total weight; so you get the pct which is just bike weight. Now turn on the power...

Hard to say anything without seeing them

IGH/NonIGH: These are heavy bikes for stairs in either configuration: somebody will clarify an exact weight, but ~56-58lbs? The SL is a different story: ~33lbs removing the battery certainly helps, but not enough to make me carry these beasts up /down flights of stairs. The SL: ok, maybe I would.

I have a 2020 Vado 4.0 and I just passed 3000miles. i Swapped out the smaller chainring at about 1000miles (keep in mind I did this change for ‘flat land’ speed) and replaced the cassette and chain at the same time, only because I wanted the drivetrain to all be ‘aged’ the same) and now at...

I replaced the sprocket myself at roughly 1000miles last year (2020 Vado 4.0). Also the chain and the chainring (and went up to the 48t). Now I’m roughly another 1000miles on this set and the tooth count has helped with wear on that smallest sprocket. I’d guess I’ll get at least another...

After I made the change from 40 to 48tooth my LBS said they should change the torque settings in the software. As I can’t confirm what, if anything, they changed, perhaps the definition they gave is incorrect. I suppose I could call them and ask for clarity of the change: they didn’t charge me...

yes, I wished Dekas had tapped those holes: bought sleeve nuts and then used painting tape on the inside to hold the sleeves while I started the bolts. Truth be told, I had to do this 2x as I added a washer on the second attempt as the chain lined up better slightly more inboard. (The washer...

So far no issues with no guard No, no issue w/o chain guard. Super happy with this setup.

I also used the Dekas, but the 48tooth, easy swap out, no special tools. I did need LBS to change the torque settings in the software to change chainring sizes. Also replaced rear cassette but stuck with the original Shimano configuration.

I use the Garmin VivoActive4, Strava and have a Vado, so I assume it’s similar with the Apple Watch. I have my Strava account connected to the watch, I use mission control only for mapping while my phone is mounted to the handle bars. I select bike as an activity on the watch, it’s linked to...