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First of all, the Lectric doesn't use LiPo's... they're lithium-ion (different chemistry, different case), and aren't as prone to catching fire as LiPo's. (Not that they can't/won't, but much less concern as opposed to LiPo's which can catch fire if you look at them funny!) I've never used...

Scroll back to page 1 of this thread... I posted pictures of the battery box I made. There's also a shot of the connector I fabricated near the top of p.2.

Not sure that George is actually using two batteries, but rather just relocated the battery for ease of removing it for charging... I am using two batteries however, and have wired them in parallel. Using the batteries' internal switches, I can run off either battery or both simultaneously...

If you're simply looking for more speed, changing the gearing is only part of the problem. The XP's controller has a programmed-in speed limit which can be lowered but not increased (assuming you have already adjusted the top speed setting to its highest). You can verify this on downhills runs...

With all the good advice against changing the chainring, I went with the DNP 11-28 freewheel option and am very happy with it. My top end on flat ground is now about 26-28mph, and I can hit over 30 on downslopes (although it feels like the motor is "braking" as soon as the controller senses...

Is Lectric using Anderson PowerPoles to connect the 5-blade battery connector to the bike circuitry now? My XP - which is less than a year old - uses Dean's!

SED6, if your next version will adapt into the Dean's plug between the battery and bike circuitry rather than the headlight plug, won't the key still be needed to activate it? On my XP, power doesn't get out of the battery unless the key is on... (Otherwise you'd have to open the battery case...

I had a similar idea, but set mine up for 12v into a cigarette lighter outlet so I could plug in my Garmin GPS. This also allows ubiquitous USB car charger plugs to be used, as well as any other 12v-based device. I used a 60v buck converter ($10.99 from Amazon) adjusted to 13.6v, and made a...

With my XP's grossly inaccurate odometer only displaying/recording 82.5% of the actual (measured) miles I ride, the minute difference in tire circumference at varying tire pressure would be pretty insignificant!

The energy bars display IS a voltmeter of sorts - just with very poor resolution and limited range. Most of the lower bars are 0.5v increments (1 bar = 40.0v, 2 bars = 40.5v, etc.) with the highest few bars being 1v increments and 48.0v for the highest. This means from 48v to a fully-charged...

Sounds like a bad controller or maybe you're actually looking at the wrong thing... If you're looking at the voltage in the settings page, that's not actually monitoring battery voltage; that's just telling the controller what battery you're using. This is the "nominal" battery voltage and...

The XP's seat post locking cam has more than enough adjustment to accommodate a 0.2mm difference in diameter without shims. My Satori Animaris at 31.6mm locks as tightly as the original Lectric 31.8mm fixed seatpost. IMHO, the suspension seatpost is DEFINITELY worth it. The difference is...

I've been through all the settings with a Lectric tech, and have not seen any way to default something that isn't one of the configurable settings (even though Lectric now has most of the settings locked down.) I suspect this is part of the controller's ROM, and and to change it would mean...

I've put over 300 miles on my XP so far, and can confirm the throttle is definitely proportional (not on/off), and there are two settings that the user can adjust to set how fast and how strong the PAS comes on. On the different PAS levels, if you watch the current draw on the display as you're...

It might be helpful to have a "cheat sheet" listing of all possible error codes for the XP... similar to the settings list (even though most are now locked down). From recent posts I now know the codes for disconnected throttle and motor, but what about others? Has anyone put together a...

I have the same issue with mine, but I took a different approach than replacing the spring: I put the original Satori spring on a piece of 7/16" all-thread between two washers and two nuts. Tightening the nuts (squeezing the spring) beyond its normal travel in the seatpost ends up shortening...

Definitely needs a shock-absorbing seatpost! I just put one on mine, along with a Cloud-9 seat, and the difference is amazing! I was ending up with bruises on my backside on longer rides with the stock seat and seatpost, but now the ride is much more comfortable. Bud

I haven't done that yet, but I'm looking to do so soon if possible. I've now got 200+ miles on my new XP and find that at higher speeds I'm pedaling way too fast in 7th gear. I'd gladly give up low-end torque (I rarely use gears 1 & 2 anyway) for a slower pedal rotation speed at 25 mph and...

17 degrees here in Kansas this morning, and dropping! No riding for a while... George, great woodworking skills! Nifty battery installation - very robust. Thanks for the photos and detailed description. Very useful for folks who have acquired a spare battery. My woodworking skills aren't at...

Finished plug, version 1.0, wired and ready to ride (when it warms up and the ice melts...) Bud