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I put that same 11-tooth freewheel on my stock Rover. In less than a year, it failed. And I don't ride aggressively or often. The first thing I noticed was that sometimes while coasting the pedals would want to rotate on their own. I thought that was odd but didn't know what was going on...

Good info, guys, but not the intended thrust of this thread. I'm talking about the naked battery back...NOT connected to the bike. Just sitting on a table, for example. If you stick voltmeter probes in your tabled, unpowered pack, do you get a positive voltage? I do and it's not intuitive...

Does anyone else get a positive voltage reading on their battery pack with it powered off? I always found that strange. When I plug in my voltmeter probes, I get about 25V but it quickly decreases and then it steadies around 12.5V. Removing the probes and reinserting them repeats the...

I think I figured my issue out. Today, the pull was abnormally noticeable, but so was some lateral movement in my front tire when I braked. Turns out the quick release--at least on mine--sucks big time. It loosens over time. And under severely *tame* riding conditions. Almost all paved...

Mine does the same thing. When I go hands free--which is surprisingly often--I have to lean to the left to counteract the right-tracking tendency. I wouldn't classify it as a hard pull...enough to be conspicuous and rather annoying. Mine isn't a brake pad rubbing thing because I have those...

I found the video below extremely helpful. It's an easy way to remove a (stubborn) freewheel without special tools. You just need a nail punch, a hammer, and a pipe wrench. I just replaced my freewheel today with a 11T one via this method...worked like a charm. The author says it's a...

Do you work for Rad? How do you know they use standard Shimano freewheels on all their bikes? Do you have a Rover? I thought I remember reading you had a Wagon and that its axle doesn't have wires protruding from it like the Rover. Thus, what works for you won't necessarily work for Rover...

Well, Rovers fall into the obsolete/classic/vintage/oddball category because the contemporary-sized tool doesn't work. It's strange because I've been using that tool on my other bikes for over a decade. But my newest bike (2016 Rover) uses an old-timey sizing??? Go figure. Btw, I wasn't...

Unfortunately, this is not true. I just drilled my Shimano cassette removal tool (to fit around the 15mm Rover axle) and hacksawed it in half (cuz the 18mm axle bolt is too wide for a tool to slip over) and it doesn't work because the tool is too big. Just slightly. Grrrrrrr.... The Park...

I think it wise to question the charge and discharge limits. However, I think we're good with the stock stuff. Here's my thinking... The charger says it outputs 2A. The data sheet for our cells states a capacity of 2.7Ah. That equates to a max C rating of 0.74 (= 2/2.7), well within the...

I've been singletracking it lately so I removed them and I'm too lazy to reinstall for a photo shoot but not lazy enough to not give you a rough idea of what they look like... The rear fender doesn't actually jut out like that. It's more contoured to the wheel. The stays would rein it in.

Thanks for the lead. Interesting placement of your light. That's probably the last place I would think to install it (frame blocks forward illumination) but if they're as bright and non-focal as your pictures indicate, it definitely gets the job (side illumination) done. No one is not going...

Bummer to hear about the Nori lights. I splurged for that option, too, but haven't installed them yet. Probably because I was miffed that it would be annoyingly tedious to click all four of the lights on every time. I'm already peeved at having to do that with my rear light.

I always get 54.6V on a full charge. I think you should too. 54.6 makes sense since it's 13*4.2. 13 is the number of cells in series in the pack and 4.2 is the voltage each cell gets charged to. Regarding the LED indicator light, I have a cordless drill battery with 3 indicator lights to...

Rear brake noise: My rear brake used to squeak, but only when applying the brake. It turned out that the pads were contaminated. I removed the pads and scrubbed them with Dawn + hot water, dried them, then reinstalled them. No more squeaking. I suspect this affects the rear brake more...