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I just got my motor replaced on my Dash, which I owned for less than 30 days before it pooped out. After almost two weeks waiting for a replacement motor it came, but my bike shop didn't bother to get me the headlight I need (snapped off wire after clipping cables coming from display when...

They didn't manufacture it that way. The casing isn't solid, it's two halves. If you hit something, or if something kicks up and smacks the bottom of the motor at 28mph - there's going to be a chance something could crack. As I addressed earlier, I wish I had purchased the 2017 model because...

Update on my situation - I ran through the OBD before taking it into my LBS/izip dealer and the motor came on but not at all fully, and then it would cut out and the motor command readings would flatline. My motor died while I was using the boost button and the readings from that diagnostic...

I'm only seeing error code 1, I haven't gotten the diagnostics to work. If I'm not mistaken you hold the +/- buttons for 10 secs, correct? I've done that but it doesn't seem to do anything. I'm bringing it into my LBS tomorrow and hoping for the best on warranty coverage. I should point...

My 2016 E3 Dash I bought on 5/3 had a pin on the battery mount offset, now the motor has just - pfft -- quit. I'll let you know if the service works out for me. So far, I'm very much regretting my purchase.

I just got the 2016 E3 Dash and I had the exact same concern. The Currie Drive is awesome because it utilizes cadence, wheel speed, pedal power and gear to determine assist. I sort of pictured in my head spinning pedals fast with no resistance as being the way the bike works, but that's not...