Search results

By your own admission you didn't know how to program the Bafang motors you had and a large chainring is more stress on the motor and your legs if you want to participate. So pick your poison Just sayin' 🙃

So there are symptoms and signs of a poorly maintained/worn system. But I'd address it at first sign, not total failure. I don't think a vacuum is necessary, just don't agitate the bottle before use. But I guess you could put it in a mason jar and use a Foodsaver vacuum.

. . .

Same here... mine is on the handlebars.

Anything is possible.. especially with the tool in question. Honestly I'd be more than happy to read he took it all apart and back together with 3 in 1 oil. I need a good laugh. 🙃 I know what's recommended but I have 3 years and 11k mi on my brakes and last checked they are working perfectly...

I've found that the thinner wraps look OK initially.. but don't stay in place over time, especially if overloaded with a large bundle and on bumpy terrain. The 70's phone cord wrap I'm using now is bulky'r but it seems to be more up to the task. Again I'm in love with the frame bag for...

The stock Bafang thumb throttle is a terd and the first thing I replaced on my Ultra and BBS02B bikes. Since my Ultra bike has a Rohloff twist shifter on the right, I installed a left hand half twist throttle. So easy to modulate just the amount of power desired.

I'm surprised as ceramic pads are what's used on most cars and recommended by mechanics for everything but high performance. Ai repeats what I've been told and my experience. "Ceramic is currently the most popular brake pad material for passenger cars due to its quiet operation, low dust...

I find ceramic pads to be best for my needs. Excellent with regards to wear and heat, quiet and much less rotor wear than anything with metal embedded. Resin comes stock because they are quiet and cheap... But don't last very long ymmv

I periodically clean and then put a very thin coat of Slickoleum on the stanchions... Right above the sweep. Exercise it a few times and then wipe off the excess with a microfiber cloth. I keep the same cloth in a baggy for future use. I find this reduces stiction and is great for small bumps...

Reminds me of funny story... This one time at Band Camp I had a bike with invisible damage and I unknowingly rode it for 15 years without issue. The only way I found out was one night at 4am when I couldn't sleep I for some reason went to check on the bike... and when I did.... This guy was on...

Sram off the top of my head... but there are a few.

I assumed so as my TRP/Tektro are mineral oil... but I didn't want to make a blanket statement for all models and/or past products.

Actually what I said was that they are. . . https://memes.yarn.co/yarn-clip/939d23df-8e12-46c8-aee2-a8179867ffa0

Well like I said I wouldn't do a full bleed or fluid change... I would just top it off with the lever bleed which only requires removing the lever bleed screw. He said the problem developed after swapping handlebars a few times. To me this information points to air at the lever.. Which also...

Ohhh that's just great! Go looking for trouble and fix what ain't broke... smh... And #1 why my bike will never see the inside of an LBS.

Anything is possible with invisible damage and please don't call me Shirley 🙃

Here we go again.... To smart to have a lick of common sense 🙃

You should be able to set Start Voltage at 0.9... If that throws an error... 1.0v should definitely work. End V should be 4.1 This will give you a little more working rotation range and have it start sooner.

Sounds like a bit of air at the handle end which is most common. I'd do a lever bleed first before doing a full bleed It's much easier, less chance of mistakes and many times all that is needed. Just match the fluid type. Tektro I believe are mineral oil based.