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Did you do it your self or by a shop? Even if you did it yourself the shop needs to use the Specialized Studio software to sync everything. As far as not starting, the main battery connector may not be seated correctly but the shop should see that when it's connected to the program.

Tubeless isn't work less. I use tubeless because it has significantly reduced my side of the road repair time. You need to check the tire pressure every time you ride. If you measure the time between flats in years or once a year, it's may not be worth it. If you get a lot of little leaks...

Discipline is the most important component of chain maintenance. Wax or oil is a distant second if you don't clean, measure and maintain on a schedule. What chain wear tool are you using? Some are more accurate than others. I prefer the Park CC-4 as cheap and accurate.

Next time you have it apart, take a photo of the bottom of the head tube and bearing seat. It will help people who have not taken their bikes apart see what it looks like. Some people think the bearings are still pressed in.

No just an owner. The last few years of working I was bicycle commuting about 20 miles each way so I learned to do my own maintenance to keep on the road. Actually I misspoke, I think I just replaced the cranks not the bottom bracket. The mention of a wave washer jogged my memory.

It's a common problem with the ISSIS type spindle which is why they fell out of favor. They work great as long as they are installed properly and kept tight. The Turbo S used that type of crank and I had one fall off on a ride many years ago. It was not good until I replaced the bottom...

OK. I thought you were referring to the steerer tube which is part of the fork assembly not the handlebar stem.

I don't think that is a precise enough answer if it referencing a Vado SL. The steerer tube is customized for the future shock system. As far as I know it's not a standard diameter. Example is to delete the future shock, you need a custom part...

It is a pet peeve, but we need to be a little more precise when talking about a "Vado SL" vs a "Vado". They are two very different models. A Vado currently has a (Brose) Specialized 3.1 motor w/ 810 W & 105 Nm, 840 Wh Battery. A Vado SL 2 currently has (Mahle) Specialized SL 1.2 motor / 320...

No mounting points. See the Creo 2 Riders Workbook https://support.specialized.com/kb/sp_en-us/content/ECV3-9624/Creo-2-Manuals-Weight-Limits-Torque-Specs

The Specialized Diverge uses the same system as Creo 1 and Vado SL 1 and possibly Creo 2 E5 (only). Searching for Diverge suspension forks, saw lots of questions but most replies went off the trail and focused on suspension stems. There may be a nugget in there somewhere. The challenge is...

I had the same issue where my SRAM shifting was suddenly bit off in some gears. I have a derailleur hanger tool and it took about ten minutes to remove the derailleur, realign and reinstall. Restored it to perfect shifting. It must have been bumped going in or out of the car or a coffee stop...

Very nice list of components. Most of us have switched to Wolf Tooth (NA) or Gabaruk (Euro) chain rings to avoid chain drops. I don't even have a chain keeper on my Creo 1 with a similar SRAM setup. You can save a bit on chains by going to the X01 instead of XX1. It has the same hard...

The GRX brake calipers are not compatible with SRAM. SRAM uses DOT 5.1 brake fluid and Shimano uses mineral oil brake fluid. No cross contamination is allowed and the brake lines need to be changed. You might be able to keep the rotors. Depending on how you buy the axs levers they may only...

You have to be a little more specific about what you are changing from what to what. Changing from Shimano to SRAM as in the quoted post requires new levers and brakes.

I seat the tire first then add sealant. I've tried various injectors that always clog and spew sealant. I currently use a Straz Components sealant funnel and add sealant 30 ml/ 1 oz at a time with a dip stick to push fibers through. I check my rear tire sealant about every three weeks and the...

I edited my post but I use a Makita battery air pump with the booster. I checked the prices of the Joe Blow Booster after I posted. I think the Airshot is the cheapest way to go if you already have a tire pump..

Get a Schwalbe Tire Booster or the Airshot which is the original brand. There is also the Topeak Joe Blow Booster tire pump. I use the Tire Booster with a Makita electric pump. I do have a compressor but generally if you need the compressor something is not fitting right. Edit 2. Don't do...

Hopefully Wheeltop has improved their firmware to match their hardware.

There are a couple of Specialized support articles that explain. Home > Resources > All About Turbo > Turbo Super Light (SL) System > Powering Your Ride: Battery Safety, Longevity & Responsibility and Home > Resources > All About Turbo > Turbo Super Light (SL) System > Turbo SL System: Battery...