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I have a few of these fan-less chargers, and while they get warm, I have not experienced any failures. If concerned about it, maybe one could cut some holes or slots in the plastic case?

User RJC above purchased from this supplier and seemed satisfied: https://electricbikereview.com/forums/threads/battery-upgrade.36789/post-350535

Here is one listed at $650Cdn w free shipping. No idea of what cells they use. NCM moscow plus ebike replacement battery Reention Dorado

The 42V cutoff sounds reasonable for a 13s pack. The 27.5V looks like an error and is likely for the 36V pack (although it represents 2.75 V/cell, unlike the 3.23 they show for the 48V pack). Most controllers also have a cut-off voltage (in some it is programmable). The 1st one to be reached...

Correct..you can of course leave the switch in the ON position and then add your own handlebar switch. I considered doing this, but for other reasons I ended up mounting the Kenda light on my handlebar, which makes the integrated switch reasonably accessible. I can't comment on how weak it is...

The kit comes with 2 lights. The rear one bolts onto the rack and is powered by standard AA batteries (i.e. not connected to main 48V pack). The front light connects directly to the 48V pack. It has an on/off switch right on top of the light itself.

You might find this thread on the NCM Forum of interest. The NCM is very similar to the Magnum Peak (and my Amego Infinite). Fork 101

Thanks George I have played with this a bit and have found the setting that works best for me. Personally, I like to pedal so have it set so the ramp-up is slowest.

I also read somewhere that 8306 and 8108 work for some people

Mine is 8088

Hi George I was considering replacing my front fork as well. Could you provide a link to the one you chose?

And another one where the effect on range was measured: https://electricbikereview.com/forums/threads/designing-battery-cover.37776/#post-379059

You can find links regarding various approaches to this. An example at

Would something like this work? Bicycle Handlebar Extender

That's amazing! I never would have imagined such a difference. When you say 19.2V battery, is that correct? Or by any chance did you mean 19.2Ah battery (at 48V?)

I don't have an NCM bike but a different one with the same DAS Kit system. Mine is a 48V battery and the lead for the lights comes directly from the battery and is 48V. I assume the light lead for any DAS Kit setup will be the same as the battery.

And is that loose wire a 48V source that does not have any on/off capability via the controller?

Although I don't profess to be an expert on this, I can share my understanding and experience with using 2 batteries on a bike, there are essentially 2 approaches: Connect the two in parallel so both are used at the same time Use one at a time by manually switching one in and the other out 1...

I rigged up a mount for a 2nd 13Ah battery to go with the installed 16Ah pack. My intent was to take along the 13Ah pack if I knew I was going on a long trip. It all works fine, but I am finding that I can do in the neighbourhood of 80-90 Km with just the 16Ah pack and the amount of pedaling I...

And if it's the same as what came with my bike, the rear light is powered by it's own self-contained batteries and the front light directly from a 48V tap off the battery/controller with no on/off capability from the display. (This last point for Chinto's post above re an alternate headlamp)