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no one knows?

Yeah I should but honestly I was already late for work and I didn't have time to play around with the rear wheel. Is it that outrageous? The tube probably costed €7 and the rest the was labour, the poor guy should be paid for the service no? Anyway what are my options to use on the road? -...

€15, I live in one of the most expensive place in Italy anyway... All based on tourism. Elsewhere is below 10.

I got a second rear flat in 1 month. This time could have been avoided. Tarmac with a wide line without it and downhill. I went full speed and it didn't see it even if it was signaled, twice. I think the tube just exploded. I seriously need to buy that tube with the ends detached. Do you think...

I never see the blinking part.

How you sure it's limited to 250W? Cause if you unlock the speed on the display you get 15A max and it becomes more like a 350W nominal motor.

What if we mounted a mxus xf15r without the 250W limit?

I have the same problem, I bought the amazon basics u lock to only realize later I couldn't find a way to mount it.

On my standard Moscow when the battery is dead I get zero bars but the display stays on. Is it supposed to blink?

I'm also interested in knowing what kind of cheap hydraulic system could be installed on this bike (27.5" standard) while maintaining the motor inhibitor. Is there a particular feature to look for on Aliexpress? Could we found something compatible cheaper than Leon Cycle's price?

Hello since I'm planning to change tires for the winter I was wondering if anyone tested how much can you go with the Moscow 27.5" non Plus. Has anyone tried anything in the 2.60" range?

how wide are those tires?

I don't have the tools and I need the the bike for commuting. Anyway is there a precise list of all the tools I need?

Got my first rear flat tire in a year. Am I thrilled to remove the rear wheel? Not really... I think I'm taking it to a bike repair shop...

I don't mean to invalidate any warranty I thought that I could just plug the wattmeter in between the plug of the controller that goes to the battery. As seen here it should be that. But yeah maybe a shunt is better!

Clever way to offend me without using offencing words right? I didn't say the product is invaluable.

Also I don't see the point of buying a charger that costs more than a new pack?

That's what I was about to say, I see a noticeable drop in performance when I go below 70% and gets worse as you go lower.

I didn't find where it says once a year full charge is enough. Anyway I don't trust my NCM Moscow battery's BMS, it's a definitely a no-name brand with who knows which components.

Source for balancing thing?