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I think it has got to be the motor. Or maybe the controller is incompatible with this particular motor. Because I have tried all six combinations without changing the phase wires. And then I have tried all six combinations while changing the same colored phase wires. Maybe there is some...

You mean that I keep the phase wires intact going to their corresponding colors, and then try out different combinations for only the hall sensor-wires, correct? Or do you mean that if the blue hall-wire from the motor goes to the green one on the controller side, then the blue phase-wire from...

I have tried all phase wire-combinations in that chart now. But I still get the same result as seen in this video. Actually the sound is not too bad. The problem is that is stops spinning after a little while, even though the throttle is still pressed in fully...

Basically I try to change the phase wires to start with? Not the halls correct? It looks like the halls stay intact on that chart. thanks

Even though I have a self learning line in my controller you think it might work better after rewiring? Should not the self-learning line solve this? Or maybe it only works for correctly wired hub motors? Not sure where to start rewiring though. A bit confused about that part. If I switch one...

Hmm maybe something is out of order. I Just used the color for color basically. Maybe best to just get hold of a better hub so this headache goes away.

So I sort of fixed an old hub back-wheel, by wiring some cables to make it work. The idea is to have it as a back-wheel on my bike. Now, it gives of a weird sound and does not seem to give continuos throttle when the throttle is pressed. Any idea if I better just get another back wheel...

Thanks. Yeah I need to be careful :) It now has a max current of 17amps from a DC controller. I switched out the old one. So a little less current at least. But not much. This one sounds better and the bursts of power are gone. Now the sound is smoother. If I put an extra motor on the back...

By the way PCeBiker what you said about the pulses and your car(I think it was you) it disappeared when I switched out the controller to another one. A DC controller. Now is 17 max current. Sounding much better. To this I have a S866 display. Works well because now I have levels of speed and...

Yeah but the alternative might be to replace my face :) So I think I let the cable go :) But I see your point. No fun having a fucked up cable either. But maybe it could be hooked onto the side where the cable is not. I am trying to create some type of torque arm just for safety. If this bike...

The link does not work for me. Yeah best would be new everything but this is more of a budget project. Kind of fun to see what I can do with just a little. So the torque arm is optional but kind of fun if I could get it onto there somehow. Just want something that will keep the wheel from...

I was thinking perhaps I could use one of those fasteners from a barbecue hose or a regular torque arm and thread that through the smallest hole on this thing. Like this if you know what I mean? Think it would work?

Hmm not sure if it would work since the axle on this weid motor is basically round and 10mm. M10 I think(?). https://www.veed.io/view/57a36d9e-5f17-4d74-b19e-e08bc4d90598?source=Homepage&panel=share Look how the screw there is basically round from the pic below. Also do you know if grin has a...

Aha yeah that whole thing with testing hall sensors and stuff is a real headache. Been doing it once before :) This controller has two self learning/intelligence connectors that are put into each other to make it work. Do you guys think it will be enough to check a few different matches with...

So I have made it move now at least. With an external throttle. Had to clip of the cables there a bit to get it onto the controller. It is not generic throttle to jhrak so different interface/hookup there at the cables. Anyway, now it is moving. I am pressing full throttle all the time in the...

You just basically paste that thing onto the motor? To check temp.

I have a kt-lcd3 and a sw900 lying around. Anyone knows if one of them supports this feature of turning down the max current?

I have a 250 watt nominal front hub motor. I have a 48 volt battery and the controller that seems to work best with the wires is a 18max current controller that I have. Would this work or would it fry the motor in a winter barbecue? I am thinking short bursts it could probably be fine now in...

Both steel and aluminium should be able to handle a small drill hole don't you think? So I can fasten the torque arm really securely. I think I will do this. I don't think the wheel will come off if a strong structure like that is keeping it in place.

Yeah thanks. Looking at one of my videos you can see that I have torque washers on the inside there. But maybe I could also strengthen this whole thing with extra torque arms. Just not sure where to anchor them. Maybe on the inside there where the washers are as well? The torque arms you linked...