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Probably should.... What gets me is this bike is comparable to this 2009 $2200 dollar bike that I paid $250 for last month: Though this cheapo mid-drive doesn't compete with the Giant Twist in fit or finish , it does out perform it, and at less than a...

I bought a couple of Huffy Oslo's on clearance a few years ago and had to admit Huffy is a master of building cheap bikes. With a new controller, gearing, and a brake up grade they became really capable little folders. The Oslo's, each costing what this mid-drive cost, ate a couple of hundred to...

The question that I now have is that there is this seemingly capable mid-drive ebike motor in a frame for $350 (and you get a cheap bike with it). If you think of it as just a frame and motor, it is quite the bargain! Though a proper build out would cost hundreds more. My initial plan was to...

Only a little nervous, afterall, it's a little battery :rolleyes:.

Received the ebike this afternoon: All there, and no damage: Put it together while the battery charged: Greased an...

Well, my crazy walmart middrive, $350 delivered, is due to arrive tomorrow. I was hoping it would arrive minimally damaged, but I noticed this on the FedEx tracking: "Shipment exception, Barcode label unreadable and replaced". I now assume it will arrive with maybe some significant damage, if it...

That bike folded is a pretty big cube How much does the bike weigh? Probably not a lot of a demand for a carrying bag for one of those, but who knows? Good luck.

Might be lucky might not, but this $350 shipped mid-drive ebike is set to arrive next Tuesday. Does that mean my location is "select"? Only the unboxing, and a test ride, will tell.

Battery building is a great skill to have, but a terrible hobby. Kind of makes you a pariah nowadays. Selling your batteries, on or off the bike, is a huge liability risks. So it's best not to have any traceable assets. That being said, you can build a safe, capable battery. It will take...

Oh kripes! I bought one. With free shipping it is the price I paid for a Huffy Oslo 3 years ago, and on that I had to do a controller, brake, and gearing upgrade, so it became $500 for a great little efolder. I'll put this bike head to head with a 36v TSDZ2b conversion I put together a couple...

I suppose in the low end market nobody cares about this style of ebike. Some sort of fat tire 20inch wheeled throttle driven 1000+ watt hubmotor thing gets all the clicks nowadays. Too bad, but most people buying aren't coming to market with a bicycle mindset. They want motorcycles. I'd be...

Front hub motors do have some inherent issues, as harryS noted, but of late I have become a big fan of a lighter weight front motor in a light bike. This is my latest build: A 350w rated motor, 48v battery, and a 22a KT controller in a mid-2000's Cannondale Badboy. It's crazy quick. I pass cars...

I'd say it's no for the controller, but maybe. 60v is the common rating for components in a 48v controller. So it might work. 52v nominal should be OK for the motor. Hopefully you have a motor temp sensor.

Generally, up to a point, motors aren't voltage sensitive. The motor was probably run at 36v, but should do 48v fine. Higher voltages give you a higher unloaded top speed.

I'd still do a rear DD motor.

If I were to build a rock solid long distance ebike it would be a rear direct drive hub motor. Select a motor that can climb without overheating. Regen is a big plus on long downhills.

I bought a battery from them, FTH Power, a couple months ago. No problems so far, quick shipping.

Everybody is entitled to there own preference in bicycle fitment, so keep trying. I got a Cloud 9 in a free pile of bike parts and put it on a bike for someone who has lost all fat. Even at that, he wants a full suspension bike.

One hopes.

The profile on the sprockets teeth are shaped to aid in shifting the chain. That's what I see. Wear usually happens in the smaller cogs because it has the highest loading per tooth. Kinda elongates the tooth valley.