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I've never regretted having more gears. On a related topic, I also love manual transmissions in cars, but I haven't been able to buy one in decades because my wife only knows how to drive an automatic transmission and won't learn to shift gears. They are selling bikes with auto shifting these...

Hard to say without trying it. I am on the shorter side and always have a very short stem on my bikes. A shorter stem makes the steering more twitchy though and a longer stem helps with that.

I have this Jones H-Bar on my Surly Disc Trucker and like it a lot. It has a few inches of rise to it and you can get it in silver or black.

Those would be too flat for me. Something like the Nitto Bosco Bars would offer more hand positions. https://www.rivbike.com/products/nitto-bosco-bar-cromo-dullbrite-55cm-x-25-4-16240 Grant Petersen makes some beautiful bikes, but he is also well known for his cycling philosophy and his book...

You find biscuits in the refrigerated section next to the Pilsbury crescent rolls. Cookies are in the cookie section. ;)

It doesn't have to be expensive though. I know you are in Europe, but I see steel forks as cheap as $30 here. You can probably get a decent one for $50-$60. You may be able to pick one up used, but the steerer tube could have already been cut. If you don't have disc brakes, replacing the fork...

Huh, I didn't know hydraulic rim brakes existed. Pretty cool.

Yeah, I don't see the appeal of those Super73 type bikes, but they are very popular. If you are actually going to pedal, you need a bike with a bicycle style seat.

Do you need to put Brembo brakes on your commuter car? No, but some people do. And maybe they will save your life coming down a mountain road if you don't know how to downshift and use the motor to slow down. Why the big debate? Those brakes will stop that bike just fine. Maybe high end...

Buying a steel fork may be a better option...

The description says: G311 Torque Arm GRIN Front Torque Arm for G311 Motors. Replaces Disk Side Anti-Rotation Washer. Requires Fork with Fender Eyelets. You could email them at [email protected]. They responded to a question i sent them New Year's Eve. They sell some of their small products on...

Torque arms are recommended. Grin torque arms are the gold standard. This is the torque arm they sell for the Bafang G311 motor that you have: https://ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/torque-arms/torqarm-311.html

Maybe this link will work better, although he does test the order of the phase wires and hall sensors separately. https://letrigo.com/blogs/knowledge/ebike-phase-wire-hall-sensor-matching?srsltid=AfmBOoq86coQdxzz6dWEuSdJLBru7kqcMHSWeS8uHTu4-2F7DMjjJXBj

I'll be honest, I didn't actually watch the video. I just grabbed the first one that looked like it covered the subject. At any rate, it isn't rocket science.

Phase wires / hall sensors are not in the right order. You have to try different combos until you get it right. Don't do it at full throttle.

It looks like Grin sells parts for the motor if you do manage to strip the gears: https://ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/motor-hardware/g311gear.html

Grin sells that motor, and at least their version comes with a thermister. They do warn that allowing too much phase current can strip the gears. https://ebikes.ca/product-info/grin-kits/bafang-g310-g311.html

Chances are it will be fine. The motor is rated for 250 watt continuous, but should be able to burst higher for short periods. If it has a temperature sensor and the controller supports that feature, it will shutdown the motor before it overheats on a long climb.

It's not like anybody else actually rides their bike to the grocery store.

I have had my eye on the Crombie Tool from Abbey Bike Tools for years, but I just can't pull the trigger when the $7 tool from Park does the job. Maybe if I worked in a shop and used it every day, I could justify it.