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yes, but only if you only use the assist on the climb. using assist on flats just makes you go marginally faster at a high energy cost. if you use strava and a power meter (a real one, not their estimate) you can see the total energy of a human powered ride and spitball what level of motor...

those are nice rides, that was kind of my sweet spot too, 50-60 miles and 3000-5000 feet. you don’t want to arrive home at 0% (and most systems will stop putting out full power before that) so another 5% is good. other losses are not meaningful. i once rode almost a hundred miles on my creo...

in concept, yes. for the bikes i’ve owned the overall system efficiency is closer to 80% than your 58%, so more like 1.85 hrs to toast the battery completely, which at 8mph is 15 miles straight up an 8% grade… that’s 6,300 feet of climbing, or up Mt Diablo (near san francisco) TWICE. that’s a...

one very easy way to observe how fairly simple this is is to ride your bike up a known steady grade at fairly low speed with power pedals or cranks. below 10mph and above 5% grade you can basically disregard aerodynamic drag, and the differences between tires of the same general type are not too...

some interesting data ! 90% would be pretty incredible - and quite at odds with what’s shown in the report @Calcoaster posted, which indicates much lower efficiency than a typical mid-drive!

no, it wasn’t, and as most who have been around here for a while know, i’ve done plenty of “those things” on an analog bike. no matter, there’s an ignore list for a reason.

i've had several different power meters on several different bikes - front hub, rear hub, mid-drive, acoustic - and we're not talking about training. we're talking about riding up hills on an ebike. going uphill at slow speeds is not racing, training, nor does it require coaching. of course...

it may take a few years longer than it would in a "rational" world, but petroleum isn't magic. there's a century of human ingenuity, blood, sweat, and tears embedded in it and renewables are much earlier on the curve. but for all the same reasons that "horseless carriages" replaced horses, so...

it will come from the grid, from a mix of nuclear, hydro, solar, wind, and gas. same as it does today but a different mix plus lots of storage - both battery and gravity. these are easy problems to solve and electric cars are inherently cheaper and more reliable once they reach scale and...

well, not really. we're talking about a specific bike - or at least a specific motor system which in a road bike means 23-30lb. not significant. i specifically mentioned rider weight, and 160-190lb probably covers most riders of this type of bicycle. a small difference, for sure, but in the...

yes, and even 150w of assist is really quite a lot on a road bike, that's the difference between a spirited amateur and a pro in a lot of cases. you won't go "fast" up a hill, but you'll go a lot faster than almost any human powered bike. beware though, with the small internal battery that sort...

yes, the harmonic pin ring was TQ's big innovation, announced a few years ago. very cool to see it in products and the net result, a smaller, lighter motor!

yes, and your math is right that it takes 300w to go up a 10% grade (200lb total) at 8mph. if your speed drops down to 4 or 5, there’s no way to get it back up other than increasing rider power to 225+ w, the X20 isn’t strong enough for that.

personally i’d skip the wheel top thing and do it right. get a 12 speed sram axs RD, cassette, shifter, chain, and change the driver on your rear wheel. probably around $700 in parts but it’ll be a sweet upgrade, as good as a brand new factory AXS drivetrain! they sell the RD and shifter in a...

this is true due to the slow rotational speed of the wheel at those low speeds; the actual 23nm of torque x 45rpm (4mph) gives you only half the power than 90rpm does at 8mph. i've seen somewhat higher numbers than you reference though - output power of around 100w at 4mph and 150w at 6mph. full...

less (weight, complexity, suspension, wires, accessories) is more get and use a varia go tubeless learn how things work, even if you’re not going to work on them yourself live in a place where the rights and safety of cyclists are respected, if not prioritized don’t buy things online if you...

I ride with my kids for weekend outings. In the event or catastropic failure or other emergency, lock the bikes up and jump on a bus, train, Waymo, uber.

it’s a very tight fit. i remember quite a lot of wiggling and coaxing and testing various directions to see if there was a clip or pin or additional fastener, and i’m pretty sure there wasn’t.

Any individuals report on noise is, well, individual. I’ve had a gen 1 creo and an x20 bike, both carbon frames, and neither is “silent.” the creo was far noisier in certain situations, especially high cadence low speed climbing, but the x20 is also audible at almost any assist level below 15mph...

they actually claim zero drag when not pedaling, which is a ridiculous claim for a mid drive, of course there isn’t drag when the cranks aren’t turning. hopefully just bad use of language lol.