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Good conformation of best practice.

Depends on delivery time. If they come directly from China it takes longer but is less expensive.

According to Rads manuals: 1. plug the charger into the battery's charging port. 2. plug the charger into the outlet. 3. After charging unplug the charger from the outlet and then from the charging port.

For the record, I have no trouble releasing the QR lever. Once released it is still not very easy to remove the wheel. I have to unscrew the lever, remove the axel, and then pound on the wheel a bit with the palm of my hand to get it to drop out. Not a big deal but I can't imagine the wheel...

From my limited experience, they look a lot different for starters. I almost chose a bike with direct drive (the Rad City) but changed my mind when I realized it didn't have the torque of a geared motor so wouldn't be as good on hills. I bought the Rad Rover instead.

Good point.

You think you will get truthful content out of a lawsuit?

So which Rad battery are we talking about? The older external mount ones or the newer ones mounted in the frame?

The Rad Runner and Lectric Xpedition are two good possibilities.

I would say the reason is simply going too fast for the conditions.

I like the Topeak system of rear rack and snap on bag. I use that on my Rad Rover. When I bought a Rad Mini I had to go with the rack that they sold as the Topeak wouldn't fit it but I found an attachment plate that I mounted on the rack so the snap on bag/pannier can be used on either bike...

1,2,&3 look like packing material. No pictures of the other two in the manual?

I suspect it has more to do with anonymity. People will say things to other people that they don't know and will never know that they would never say to someones face.

Return it and get something else?

You'll have to explain that one. I've adjusted mechanical brakes several times. It's easy, quick, and never been painful.

I'll admit the cable actuated hydraulic calipers are much better than the stock calipers that came on my Rad Rover but the stock brakes were also perfectly adequate. I only switched when my stock front caliper wore out and Rad did not have them on their parts page. Might do the same someday on...

Not when there are lawyers and dollar signs involved.

I don't think so as calipers are not even listed on their brake parts page.

So now all that's needed is to figure out if Rad really said that or did Flax get it wrong as it doesn't make much sense to me that they would object to a better caliper being used on their bikes. Bolten's how to video on these calipers uses a Rad bike as their example.

Wanted to correct an error. I replaced the calipers with the hydraulic not because I was tired of making adjustments but because my front caliper had worn out and was no longer working and decided to upgrade rather than replace.