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Beautiful day for a ride, today. My daily 20 miler. Fättie showing off by the pond.

Pretty intense, Charge! Nice work. Glad the diagnosis on the awful squeak was simple (and intentional by the manufacturer).

Well, the primary reason that I switched to an ebike was to make riding hills less daunting. Also, I would say that comfort — in general — on the bike was an equally strong motivator. To me, it sounds like you’re getting kind of kooky performance from your bike. The lurching sounds wrong...

Hi gang, I’ve been interested in the R&M bikes as they are pretty unique and I think purpose-built. It’s been very interesting reading your comments, and I realize this is a pretty old thread. I really appreciate all the unadorned comments. And, by the way, the “penny wise pound foolish”...

Hey, Stefan… I’m confused by your comment mostly because of terminology. Are you saying one of these bikes that @Cycologist was comparing is not a road bike? I.e., is one of these a “commuter” bike? In what way? It seemed like a fair comparison if you’re looking strictly at weight.

I wonder if there’s a (dead) coin battery somewhere in the electronics. Maybe that’s affecting the ability to turn the bike on/off… I don’t know anything about your bike, but a repeatable problem like this sounds like some sort of setting in the controller or in the display (if this bike has...

Wow, that’s a big draw.

Depends how hard knuckles were rapped during assembly. Spare the rod, spoil the battery.

What is the “special offer” that they’re mentioning in the letter? Just curious what they’re trying to do; no skin in the game for me.

I’ll bet there is a calculator somewhere for this. In any case, the battery needs to supply the nominal voltage, but you need to figure out how many Watt-hours you need to size the battery for the amount of riding time you want. I’m pretty sure my Juiced RipCurrent S was capable of ~2000W...

Ah, that’s kind of what I figured, Chris. So a USB cable, then, from a Kiox or Nyon display to the iPhone, then, to get the Connect app to work? And, as far as @joegenco is concerned, there is no solution to connect to the Connect app with the existing Purion display?

Just curious, but would this be a USB connection? And would you run the wire from the Kiox/Nyon display to the phone, or is this a cable that comes from the controller (hidden in the frame)? Again, just curious!

Based on the info from @BEC111 , I suspect his problem is that he is closing the app when he brings up the phone or photo app (whatever he is doing when he’s off his bike)… It’s very easy to make that mistake on the iPhone, especially if you ride with the app keeping the display on. Or, it...

That’s a really, really good point. Here I am, Mr. “watch out for unsupportable products” and I fail to mention that.

Hi: I don’t know the Specialized app, but I use RideWithGPS on my iPhone. There’s a stop button, but you don’t want to use that if you’re just taking a break from your ride; the app automatically knows when you’ve paused your ride and when you’ve re-started it and you don’t need to do anything...

@ebott, this might help. I’m not sure what KCLAMBER is as a company, but maybe you can hunt it down. The picture shown by the poster there is a TOSS1, I think. https://forums.electricbikereview.com/threads/juiced-ripcurrent-s-can-the-torque-cadence-sensor-be-repaired.50660/page-2#post-632728...

Grab it.

Hah! Try living with a bike when the manufacturer surreptitiously disappears from existence. That’ll numb you all over. ;) Just kidding, of course. Ultimately, parts/price issues suck for those of us who like to ride a lot.

@ebott, please see your message inbox on the site.

Is your price for these lower than the other bikes mentioned? I couldn’t find any other places with these for sale, and Elias said he could get one cheaper… That surprises me.