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cassette or freewheel? Either of them should be just a regular bike part.

I have a 52v 750w bbs02 on a Trek 7.2. It will do 35mph, level ground full charge, on the throttle. I do have short steep hills and have no problem, though I do shift to the lower gears. The bbshd is a kilo plus heavier, and at 1000w technically illegal for road use. It does shed heat better...

It would help, but the bottleneck is the motor connector and getting that compatible with what is already on the bike. That might take a bit of soldering.

Grin (ebikes.ca) is in the top tier for hub motors, and it's a Canadian company. Leafbike has many likes with their motors. Or you can search (Bafang) hub motor in wheel.

The bbshd is overkill for what you want the bike to do. The bbs02 is lighter, and has plenty of power.

Just a standard 500w hub motor in a wheel. Easy to source one of those.

Yeah, color is an unimportant criteria in my purchasing of an ebike, but then again I'm buying twenty-year-old bikes and putting motors in them. Quality and condition is what I look for.

Oh, I've used them, and they have worked fine for my non-trail use. But having taken them and other spring Rockshox forks apart I found the better models have twice the bushings (and springs), and appear much more robust.

They sure promise a lot for a sub $2000 ebike: https://wiredebikes.com/ . It's a geared hub motor, and they don't shed heat. You'll burn that motor up in short order at 3200w, and even their claim of 1500w continuous is dubious. If the motor does not have a temp sensor that is monitored the...

40 mph on level ground! How many watts does that motor pull at that speed?

Yeah, you do want front suspension. An ebike has more speed and weight, so it helps when you need to eat a bump. Without suspension your arms and legs are your suspension (will not talk about "fat bikes"). When you get front suspension you will then notice that you don't have rear suspension...

....that is until you smell that smell😥.

And I'll add to the above that I prefer a rear direct-drive hub motor. The only downside for me is that dang heavy rear wheel. With pedaling I can fly up the hills. My biggest hub motor is labeled at 500w, but is fed up to 1440w. It helps that it's in a 3x9 gearset bike. With direct-drive hub...

I think he's confusing torque with power. If you have 100 Nm torque at zero rpm you have zero power, at least as far as the wheel is concerned in making you go. You want the motor turning at peak efficiency, and yeah, that's where a mid-drive can shine, especially in comparison to a direct-drive...

Non-Euro mid-drive motors do have throttles. There are advantages and disadvantages to both motor types, so it's up to the individual. I have a 750w Bafang mid-drive bike, and a 500w direct-drive hub motor bike, and both are great ebikes.

I think it would, as I have several extra inches of room when I put a 135mm bike in it. Whatever brand label it once had is long gone. This was a lower end training stand that sat on the side of the road until I picked it up. I was going to make it into a bicycle powered generator, but gave up...

For motorization I have no recommendation other than to buy a lightly used quality bike that you think will work for you. Of course, you need to figure out how to fit your chosen motor, and how to fit your chosen battery. The problem is finding that used bike, and it really should be under $300...

Yes there is! Least expensive way is to motorize a bicycle that fits the bill. And I'm sure that there are production bikes that do it too. The good stuff is expensive. Even doing a build your own can cost up to $3k. I do love my Grin motor-kit. Here it is on it's second donor bike:

Why a fat-tired full-suspension bike? My concerns are rolling resistance and noise. Unless you're off-roading, I'd ditch those knobbies and go with a road friendly tread. I'd thin them down too, but that's just my preference.

That was a training stand sitting on the side of the road with a free sign on it. Took the resistance thingy off. A quite useful thing it is.