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There will be mountains of cheap ebikes in the not too distant future. Maybe I'll pick their bones -- like what I do now, feasting on the heaps of discarded aucoustic bicycles.

This is from BigBattery.com: "Lithium batteries are not likely to suffer any noticeable damage unless you store them at consistently extreme temperatures such as under 20 degrees or over 100 degrees Fahrenheit. Nevertheless, keeping them at a comfortable temperature is ideal for battery...

In my mind there is only one way to "fix" a cheap bicycle and that is a new bike, which you can do piece by piece or complete. Cheap bikes hurt me just to look at them, and when at times I end up with one I diassemble it into it's elemental form and recycle it.

Should be most mid-drives and geared hub motors, and even a direct-drive hub motor can be electronically "freewhweeled". Though, all ebikes seem to pedal with a lot of deadweight when go to to 0 PAS.

That's some cool gear, but 89 quid is 116 dollars!

Buy a new PAS crank sensor unit with the same magnet count and a Julet plug. Install their magnet wheel and place the sensor per the installation instructions. Though, you might need to enter the set-up mode and your display can't do that.

I really like the Kenda Marathon Plus tires for road ebiking.

There are controllers that put a small amount of power into the motor and it eliminates the cogging resistance of a direct-drive motor. On my Grin equipped bike, at 0 PAS the motor is fed 1w. It pedals like a regular, albeit heavy, bicycle.

Have you ever thought about going to a high amp direct-drive hub motor. Something like the 1500w Leafbike motor. If you know your top motorized speed, and steepest hills, then you can figure the motor kv and the voltage needed. People compensate for hills with high amps, and compensate for the...

Thanks for that rabbit hole Jeremy. Though I will never ride on a 4 inch fatty, even at 1/2 bar!

Yep, as far as ebikes, there's no enforcement at all where I'm at (Western Washington).

Well Jeremy, you have gone over to the dark side. A mid-drive, how could you do it! Seriously, though, if the gearing and fit is right for you, you'll love it.

If you so fancy ride it until it dies, or you decide on another ebike. You'll figure out what you want by doing.

All it should be is an issue with the shift cables adjustment. Probably has some stretch. It is kind of a peculiar adjustment, and if it isn't set right you lose some range. No gears in it.

I think putting a motor on that bicycle (especially a mid-drive) ruins the whole concept of the bike. A hub -drive might work, but where would you mount the battery? If you want a deal look for a lightly used older pedal bike. They're out there, hopefully stored dry. Most of them are easy to...

Does the bike turn the motor? The bms (battery management system) in the battery probably tripped, and the charger won't charge because it doesn't see the voltage it wants to and won't start charging. I've had luck with a forced start of the charger, but that's using a Grin Satiator charger. The...

I hear you on the drop bars, but I can still ride on the hoods. I should try riding some of those quality production ebikes too, but I'm into the build your own thing. That really only works with a lot of knowledge (which you have) and a bunch of quality bikes and parts (older good quality bikes...

Is that barbecue in the bushes at the bottom of the garden? 🤓

You need the tool to unscrew the freewheel. It's not expensive, and something you'd want in your bicycle toolbox. They can be really stuck on. One method I have used is to put the tool in a bench mounted vice, then put freewheel on the tool (cluster down of course) and turn the wheel the normal...

The freewheel incorporates the ratcheting part and the sprockets in one unit, the cassette is just the sprockets which fis on the ratcheting freehub on the axle. The only foreseeable problem would be getting the freewheel off the bike wheel.