If you can test the current connector and find the wring diagram of the other Tektro, you should be able to figure out how to wire the new connector on it to be compatible with your display.
Again, normally all the brake lever does is open or close a circuit, so as long as you run the existing...
If you current brakes are TEKTRO, I am sure TEKTRO has hydraulic ebrakes, so you can ask them if they use a compatible connector to the one you have (if you do...)
https://tektro.com/en/product/5
For example the link below is for a Magura MT4 brake, the closer model (normally opened, closes on brake), using a HIGO connector
https://www.magurausa-shop.com/product.htm?pid=288075&cat=22863
I dont see any wire connection on the brake lever you mentioned.
Are you sure the brake lever you have now have a switch and wire connector?
If they do and you cant find the proper documentation about the switch, you can test it yourselfwith a simple Multimeter.
You put the multimeter on the...
You do not need to find brakes using the same connector. The connector can always be changed.
You do need to check if the connector is a Normally Closed (NC) and opens when you brake, or Normally Opened (NO) and closes when you brake.
Then any Hydraulic brake with a Cutoff switch of the same...
It depends on your background and preference.
If you are a traditional biker and love your derailleurs, then stick with what you like and are familiar with.
If you are a traditional biker that never really cared for the maintenance, adjustments, grease, inability to shift at stand still of a...
I understand that, but there is a reason all surveys ask these at the very end. By this time, people are invested in the survey and more likely to go along....
Beautifull work, but it looks like an engineer prowess without a real customer value :)
https://www.startengine.com/offering/veer
It looks almost as big an heavy as an IGH, so you have to question the value....
The ultimate value of a belt is the single cog and an Internal Gear Box.
Making a...
You should contact the resellers of the bike with the exact model and a picture of the bike, and ask if they sell the controller.
If not, you can ask what is the controller brand and model, and if they know where you may be able to get one
OK, here are my thoughts.
My understanding of what I am seeing.
You have two interferences:
The bolt of the rear rack/fender on the frame
The right side adjustment screw of the rear wheel.
1) For the rack bolt, I see two things you could try to reduce the interference.
Instead of a screw...
I was hoping you could may have added a spacer on that side playing with the flexibility of the arm, but it looks like it is too much space to clear.
Do you have pictures of the rear side from the top to see exactly how the wheel adjustment thatis in the way is structured?
I dont see the automatiq clamping to the frame.
Is the interference with the part of the automatiq that sticks out, if so, have you tried all possible rotation of the hub to see if one position clears it?
can you take a picture?
You should not give your email on a forum, this is a recipe for disaster....
Scammers have bots gathering these automatically.
Use personal messaging from the forum instead.
You should edit your post and remove it.
My 2 cents
In my experience overly stiff shifter comes from bad adjustment of the shifter cable.
Review the procedure on Enviolo site and try to improve their adjustment.