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I agree this is likely the problem, but with this style of connector you can't really see the color of the wires. I think there's two options to troubleshoot that: 1. Cut the cable a couple of inches from the end and strip the insulation from the cable on each side until you can get the smaller...

You might try to use the Bolton settings to see if they work. Changes from your settings are in bold. P1 = 100 P2 = 5 P3 = 1 - when this value is 0, throttle max power is determined by the PAS level. when it's 1, max throttle is allowed regardless of PAS level. P4 = 0 P5 = 0 - This value is...

Can you post the settings from your LCD-3 (values from P1, P2... and C1, C2...)?

Maybe the reseller can share some of the blame because he is advertising a 500w kit as 1500w? Maybe the customer just wants to get the power level he was promised?

The current controller is 11 amps continuous, 22 amps peak. Most sellers would market that as 500w (48x11). The 30a amp controller is 15 amps continuous. So that's about 200w more continuous power and 400w more peak power. I'm not sure why they are calling it only a 500w controller but the math...

What do you mean by that?

The problem that you're going to run into is that the 9-pin motor connector used in your kit is really only good for 30 amps, so most 35a controllers use a bigger connector that would be incompatible. There are some 30a controllers out there that should work, such as this one. If you just google...