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... look, you have better and cheaper solutions for that, like a motor scooter, e.g. And don’t forget that any engine isn’t made for constant use at full power, so neither is this bike motor.

Stefan, it is not related to the manufacturer of the motor or bicycle, but it is determined by European legislation. Thus, in the EU they are allowed to use e-bikes with a maximum permanent motor power of 250W. Short-term (burst), each motor can generate significantly more power than the...

Either way, but the data: 74.4 W from you, and 253.1W from the eBike. they are neither theoretically nor practically possible, since a bicycle cannot give more power than a cyclist. This is the basic setting of e-bike operation. Furthermore, your cadence of 70 and 102 indicates that you do not...

. . . for a simple reason, because I could not master my Dalmatian hills without motor assistance. And for everything else, I use my muscles as much as I can. This does not mean that sometimes on a flat road I will not start the motor if I am in a hurry to reach my destination.

That is exactly what I am writing about on that other topic, run by @AntonioAlfaro The motor "gives" as much as I "give". On uphills it is more, and on flat parts less. On average, as you stated about 1.25 W / km.

According to my last battery charge, as of last night, the expected range is almost 200 km or 125 miles. I deleted the serial numbers of the engines and batteries, so that no one would come up with the idea to hack me.

and I am 61 :)

I record approximately the same data as you (except for the cadence - my maximum is less than 100). I'm a little older than you, and I have high blood pressure too. Sorry Stefan, but I'm still confused. Maybe one day I'll figure out what it's all about. For now, let it stay that way. Good luck. ;)

According to CRR data, you (95 kg) with your Vado SL (18 kg) should easily reach 29 kph on a flat road (without uphills) without any motor assistance, as it does not require 80 watts. If you need motor assistance, then something is wrong, either with the bike, the tires or with your physical...

I suggest you start from the available CRR data. Your Hutchinson Fusion 5 Performance TLR 700x30 road tires require over 28 watts (for two tires) to maintain a speed of 29 kph (18 mph) with a load of 42.5 kg (94 lbs). Alternatively, Panaracer Pasela PT 700x38 city/touring tires require over 38...

These are not your real problems. Your real problem is something third, since the questions asked are not for the forum but for the authorized service. Your bike is under warranty! BTW, what were you doing with that bike? How did you torture him? I don't think you followed the instructions...

I think the initial assumptions are wrong. Namely, the fact is that the average cyclist (power = 3x weight) can generate 246 watts (as you calculated), but this does not mean that on flat terrain without major climbs this average cyclist will spend all 246 watts. It probably won't take more...

probably this information is initially ignored, as it is calculated from previous motor use (in the factory or service ). Regardless of that information, you should now be able to cycle over 50 miles on a road without uphills. Already after the second or third charge, a much greater distance...

I apologize for the inaccurate information for the UK. In fact, I did not expect you to exclude that part of European legislation from use in the UK. But if you like it that way, good luck. However, I do not recommend the use of flashing lights, for several reasons: 1. flashing lights confuse...

1. Yes, it is really illegal (EDITED) in EU. 2. Press and hold a little longer until the lights go out.

1. Lights flashing is not allowed by law in Europe and the UK. Lights flashing is reserved for emergency services. Lights flashing can also be dangerous as it prevents a good estimate of distance for other road users. 2. To turn the lights on and off (front and rear) see picture below. 3. I have...

As @ Stu14 has not yet responded, I looked around a bit (because I don’t use fenders). As far as I could see, the Curana mudguards were originally installed. The first image shows the fender data I found in the Orbea Bluepaper for Vibe (the entire Bluepaper can be found on the Orbea web). But...

to be completely precise, since 2021, the Vibe series is the successor to the F series of Gain, which was produced until the end of 2020.

Like any predecessor, the Gain F40 has been upgraded and redesigned through its successor Vibe. With the Gain F40 the motor is not a "plus", the rear derailleur is not a 10 speed Deore, there are no built-in lights, . . . , but without a doubt it is a very high quality e-bike.

These are not e-bikes, so it is something completely different and incomparable to Vibe, the younger brother of the famous and acclaimed Gain. Are they good? They’re probably good because Orbea doesn’t make bad bikes. But these are not e-bikes!