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I just keep a 5' long by 2' wide board of wood in the truck bed, along with a sturdy stepstool. Wheel it right up and down to the truck bed. No need to break your back lifting the bike.

I am planning on purchasing a shell (or possibly softopper) for my short-bed pickup truck with a 5 foot length. The only way my bike under the shell would fit would be with both wheels removed. I am wondering what the best way to support the rear of the bike is, without the derailleur getting...

If you have a pickup, why not just wheel the bikes on the bed of the truck, and tie a couple of ratchet straps over the handlebars to secure them? No risk of getting rear ended and losing the bikes, no risk of the heavy bikes falling off the rack, and no road debris to scuff up the bike. Seems...

You are a kind man Mike to save that snake's life.

How are the conditions at the pine creek gorge currently? Thinking of going up in a couple weeks

A brooks saddle cured all my butt pain problems

Shimano, Brose, Yamaha, and all the miscellaneous third party manufacturers are a huge pain to get replacement parts for in the event of motor failure, to the extent that your bike may be a brick. I have read countless stories of this over the years. Given that, why would a US buyer get any...

How are the trail conditions on the GAP trail and the C&O currently? Covered in snow? Thinking of heading down to cumberland this weekend for a GAP/C&O ride.

I had one of those tetraracks and returned it. I thought it was garbage. I went with old man mountain front and rear racks. They really are by far the best on the market, and the only solution for aftermarket racks on full suspension bikes.

Update: I ordered the cable from ridewill in italy for $45 USD shipped, and it showed up at my house in USA three days later. Very impressive. The installation was simple. A handful of bolts to take off the skid plate, which I realized is cheap garbage that won't protect anything in an impact...

Mike, When you dropped the motor housing on your PW motor, which bolt did you use as your pivot, to keep the motor housing from falling off? On my PW-X, on the drive side, have an 11nM bolt hiding behind the chain ring, and another 11nM bolt closer to the battery terminal. On the non-drive...

The cable is costing $65 from Lenny's. Not sure why the same cable can be imported from Europe for under 20 euros...plus 40 euros in shipping costs to ship to USA...

I'm waiting on the cable from Lenny's. Should have it soon.

Good news - Lenny's is sending a replacement cable!

Good news, I am able to access that bolt on the drive side hiding under the chainring without having to remove the chainring, and the little plastic clip that the sensor wire feeds through is in fact split, so once I get the replacement cable I should be able to feed it through the clip. I now...

Thanks mike, it does look like there is a bolt hiding behind the chainring. I am not sure exactly what bolts are needed to be removed to drop the motor, but it looks like the chainring needs removing. Here’s a couple pics of the motor housing I see what your saying about separating the wire...

It looks like there is a red, green, and blue wire.

Thanks - Are you aware of any online videos or manuals for dropping the motor on the PW-X? I found this forum chat and video for dropping the motor on a Haibike Sduro (which I believe is a PW-SE), but I am not sure how the process differs for the PW-X...

Thanks guys for the feedback. I think its a strange design that a cable that is integral to the function of the motor is as easier to snap than a brake line, and replacing it is not straightforward. I bought it from Lenny's, I'll call them on monday and hopefully they will have a solution...

[/u Thanks for the suggestion, but I have no idea how to splice a wire and would really prefer just to replace the part. I believe it is the speed sensor pickup cable that I need, though I do not know which specific cable will suit my bike, how to install it, or where to purchase it from.