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Take a look at the Sondors LX, a tall sturdy very powerful bike.

Li-po batteries are very efficient in discharge, they will certainly won't heat, puff nor explode with a typical commercial E-bike discharge rate of 0.5C to 3C . The best one can be discharge 10 to 20 times faster without any danger, which is not necessary for a commercial E-bike, who need the...

At a low discharge rate of 0.5C, the temperature is constant. It's probably what my wife and I do most of the time on a 2 hours ride, draining the battery to approx. 3.8v per cell. As an example one of my bike a MTB has a 17.5 Ah battery and my controller is limited to 25A, the maximum...

Good infos: https://batteryuniversity.com/article/bu-410-charging-at-high-and-low-temperatures https://batteryuniversity.com/article/bu-809-how-to-maximize-runtime https://batteryuniversity.com/article/bu-502-discharging-at-high-and-low-temperatures https://batteryuniversity.com/articles

Speed limits are necessary and relatively easy to enforce. Give me the permission to built a 60 mph E-bike with the actual legislation (permit, insurance) I will do it, and I won't be alone ! The line between E-bike, E-moped and E-motorcycle must be clear and speed limits is the easiest way...

I consider it's a privilege to ride a bike with electric assistance, no insurance, no permit, light helmet on cycle paths or on roads paid by all the taxpayers. Restrictions ? that goes without saying.

Don't do that it's not a good idea. A front hub motor is a good choice only on paved road. The weight of a front hub on the trail, bumps and hills will be disturbing and traction will be very limited. A hub motor has a fixed gearing. Buy a mid motor to make your motor benefit of your rear...

Not a record , Sondors LX is 89.2 pounds and it's not a cargo bike !

I'm 5'9" and I canceled my order in April when I saw the numbers and the new weight in the reviews.

I can go 40kph with less than 1100w with my MTB. I don't understand. When you use your PAS numbers or your throttle, it's what you do, reduce the amount of Amp. available to the motor.

When I see your bike I am surprised that you need that much power to go 40 kph. I would also be worried in your situation.

It's not an opinion, it's what I do. On slippery surface, I test the adherence and regulate my speed with the rear brake then I use the front brake, few seconds later, if I need more. To control a sliding rear wheel is nothing compared to a sliding front wheel, I have a couple of falls to...

Both on pavement. Rear first on dirt and gravel as a speed regulator. Front first ? No !

Your motor is draining what it needs to do the work. IMO reducing the power will simply reduce your speed. Your bike is certainly heavy, with huge tires, upright rider position, no gear choice, no pedals, all these things contribute to the high energy demand.

I have a bike with a Hailong battery fixed upside down. When I rode off-road the plastic sliders on the mounting plate broke. Because my battery is inside a case and not visible I used 3 zip tie to fix it. I would use 2 velcro straps with the blue MTB bike on the picture.

Formosa offer translucent ends covers. https://formosacovers.com/products/dual-bike-cover

There is a high probability that the hall sensor wires in your handle are reversed. If you can solder small wires, open the handle, switch them but be aware that the motor could also start full throttle if you have the wrong combination.

The low power density of the actual e-bike batteries is enough for most users, taking into account human power contribution, speed restrictions and relatively short distance of the rides, the popularity of e-bikes is the proof. Most motorcyclists have expectations in term of speed and range...

The only logic to buy a bike like this one is the intention to derestrict it.

I agree with you on those 2 points.