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I put a couple drops of mineral oil in the reservoir fill hole and vigorously worked the brake lever until it disappeared. Repeated this about 10 times and now the front brake is firm like the rear. No guarantees this will work for every situation but it's worth a shot. This method didn't work...

I agree. That looks to be the business model going forward.

It would be less apparent with higher current cells or more cells in parallel. What is your wife riding? I didn't see anything in the Hydra BMS settings that would pertain to this.

Found my reason for both shutdowns. Wasn't under voltage after all. So the question remains: Why is the motor controller configured to draw more current than the BMS allows?

Some BMS settings of interest pertaining to shutdown. Also of interest, this BMS tracks remaining amp-hours. This would be very nice to bring out to a future display as a huge improvement over the voltage based gauge.

I was definitely overloading the battery causing the display to turn off. Comments retracted based on information presented in following posts: This would only get worse in cold weather as battery performance is diminished. I'm looking at the Samsung 35E discharge curves and tuning to 1300W...

8 months for Watt Wagons 5 days for the carriers 10 days at the border until I contacted the carrier and broker to see what was going on. Nothing was going on.

I received my final customs invoice. It was only Federal GST (5%) plus $400 in brokerage fees. Oof.

Thank you for your effort on this project. I'm in for the tight tolerance solution.

That's because the display doesn't compensate for the non-linear discharge curve. The voltage drops faster at full charge. Source

I couldn't replicate the problem on a 100% charge today. The battery was dipping down to 46V which is definitely cutoff territory. The smallest three sprockets started skipping at 30 mph uphill and a fast cadence. I can't get the chain to wrap around the smaller sprockets anymore any farther...

The power goes on after stopping pedalling for half a second in all PAS levels and power output levels. If I stop pedalling and tap the break cutoff too quickly, the power kicks back on briefly. The brake cutoff doesn't cancel the PAS overrun. Anyway, I found the ideal way to shift is when my...

Yeah, I will adapt. I just don't want to! 😄 @Acme described a similar shutdown here. I'm naturally a high cadence rider, so I didn't think I was lugging the motor. @J10001 sounds like he's having a different problem as his display doesn't turn off.

It's a hard gear shift if you don't wait long enough for the motor to stop. I can hear it stop at low speeds but can't hear it over the wind at high speeds.

It was a cool day, I had been riding on level ground at PAS 2 or 3 at 20 mph. Then I bumped it up to PAS 5 and went hard up a very steep hill for about 30 seconds. I hit about 30 mph and the display shut off. I turned and went back down the hill. It was about 10 seconds before I could turn the...

Thanks. My heart absolutely did sink when when I saw that come out of the truck.

No, I ordered the bottle holder back in May when I thought delivery was getting close. It's polycarbonate (lexan). I got it from Amazon Canada but can't find the exact same model on Amazon US. No worries, it's dark here now and my Hydra doesn't have a headlight.

The livery are vinyl decals. Warm them with a hair dryer and they'll easily peel off. I haven't enquired about the shutdown. I'm not supposed to have 2300W anyway, so it doesn't seem right to ask.

Just 13% HST on a value which may or may not reflect reality. 😉 The brokerage fee was quite steep, though.

Nope. R+L Carriers in the US and Day&Ross in Canada. The final delivery guy happily stuck around and helped me inspect for damage.