Search results

JayVee: You're quite right that the Yamaha motor in our bikes has a specific operating style that must be learned to get the best use of it. Although Court has noted that the torque drops out if a really high spin is used, it's still true that a decent rpm is required to keep from bogging down...

I agree about the power settings: ECO+ is near useless, Standard and High feel about the same to me.

Yes. I'm 5'-7" and ride a 48cm Sduro Trekking.

Yes, ebikes depreciate faster than non-assist bikes because of dead batteries and rapidly changing technology. So you buy a bike or kit at a price you can live with and ride the crap out of it. Anyone looking at an ebike with concerns about resale is in the wrong market.

Piper, here's a not very clear photo..you should be able to get the gist of it if you zoom. The mount (sorry, I can't remember who makes it) is sized for the 31.8 clamp area and is two halves that bolt together with two bolts (open clamp). It fits perfectly between the stem and battery-display...

Thanks, Piper, I tried it but it didn't work so I slapped the battery light back on. I love the rest of my Haibike, but the lighting situation is near useless. I'm over it!

I have one of these mounted on my Sduro Trekking. I use mine for a cell phone holder, but you could probably mount a bag to it. The link goes to a forum page..scroll down a bit for the image. https://goo.gl/images/CCFmas

Hmm, I hadn't thought of using glue. I have some Gorilla Glue around here, I'll bet a couple drops would hold it. Thanks for the tip! Speaking of Haibike lights, my rear one gave up after a couple rides, too. The two wires became disconnected and I know nothing about soldering wires. I taped...

Keep an eye on those front light bolts. Mine backed out and went bouncing down the highway on my first ride. I haven't figured out what size they are yet (my stash of water bottle bolts don't fit) so right now the light is not-very-tightly attached to the fork with zipties. Not a great solution.

OTOH, here's a link about lights I found in another thread. It doesn't sound like a job I would trust myself with, but it's do-able. http://www.markkitaoka.com/latest-news/supernova-m99-pure-review/

The Trekking models come with wired lights so it's technically possible to do a DIY job, but I don't think it's worth the hassle. I have USB-chargeable front and rear lights (Cygolite) that I swap to whichever bike I'm riding, and they're both brighter than the stock Haibike lights. You could...

I weigh 195 (pounds) and if anything, the Trekking SL feels overbuilt for me..I don't think 230-240 would be an issue. One other thing to consider is you need to get the bike you really want. It's a lot of money and if you really want a mountain bike, you're not going to be happy with a...

The need to shift is why I like mid-drives. I've used a few hub drives, and even in pedelec mode it felt like I was just kinda pedaling along with the power, similar to using throttle. My Yamaha mid-drive is a more involving experience where the rider is required to keep the motor in an optimum...

The chainguard is actually there mostly to prevent the chain from dropping off to the outside while shifting to harder gears in back (the plastic chainkeeper aids in this, too). Adding the second ring and front derailleur accomplishes the same thing, so you're good to go.

There ya go, this is what my research of mid-drives led me to believe. On my Yamaha with torque sensing there's a point at which the rpms are too high to engage the system, so I'll shift up then, but I largely shift it just like a regular bike: gradually clicking down as the hill rises...

I'm going to throw a wrench into this by saying both bikes you're looking at are aimed at the riding you'll do the least, if at all. I have an Sduro Trekking because, although I don't commute, I like to go on long day pavement rides with all the stuff I need. Fenders, a rack and lights covers...

Is there a particular reason why you want so few gears? My only experience is with the Yamaha mid-drive on my Haibike 10-speed, and I shift through most of the range on every ride. The motor has an rpm range it operates best in which requires frequent, small gear changes. I don't know what motor...

Yep, I'm definitely a retrogrouch. My nice non-ebike is lugged steel with cantilever brakes, bar-end shifters and a 9-speed cassette. Now I'm learning about hydraulic disks, 10-speed cassettes and something called high-mount front derailleurs!

Ah, I see what you're saying. I have the same bike and was thinking of braze-on derailleurs, but you're right, there's room for a clamp-on mech. You're good to go!

Calling your LBS is a good idea for converting to two rings. I'm pretty good with bike tools, but I don't see a simple way to add a front derailleur to my bike. The cable would have to thread through the frame, then it meets a mount designed for the chainring guide. Maybe I'm just an old...