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I go pretty deep into this in my awd series, linked above. If you are building a bike, thats the only way to do awd and not get screwed.

Depends on the bike. Some - particularly the adventure bikes from the hunting bike folks - are pedalable. I think its a mistake to see a dual-motor bike as a powerhouse. The benefits of 2wd are really achieved thru distributed traction. Done right, the fact you have two motors can be...

I totally forgot the Shimano Linkglide cluster is an 11s 11-50T. Every reviewer raves about their durability. Myself, since I can get a Microshift steel cluster in 11-46T for 11s, and its only $65 vs. $120, AND my chain alignment keeps me from using the smallest and largest cog, when I look at...

Nothing bad you can say about either of those brands. But for a BBSHD I'd still want the 18 or 24 pts of engagement you get with the DT350 vs. 5 or 6. I've got one with the 36 pt ratchet and I've heard they can slip, although mine never has. Still I only did that upgrade once. I've got 4...

"good one" is relative. All freewheels suck, but some suck less than others :D You just need something that is not going to start out as a $2 Temu freewheel that is counterfeiting an $18 Shimano freewheel, and that isn't going to turn into a rust bucket like yours did. I heard about the DnP's...

If you have a steel cassette body with a ratchet engagement hub, everything lasts forever. The buy-in for the steelie is about $60 but that doesn't fix the issue of pawls. Its about a $300 total solution to do a DT 350 hub, or a Wren which seems to be a DT hub with a different label on it. Or...

The argument against clay-based Mobil28 vs. say SHC100 which is lithium-based is like people screaming "FORD! and "CHEVY!" at a monster truck rally: Never-ending and pointless. It is technically correct that a lithium-based grease is more better. But its also correct that people have been...

Nope. A 10T on a 1750w mid is always going to be a wrong answer. Closest you will find is the Box2 11-50 or 12-50 with a Shimano cassette body. Regardless of whether you pick the 11 or the 12 chain alignment will probably also torpedo the use of that smallest cog.

Thats awesome to see. I have two of those and have wondered wtf I was going to do if there was an internal failure on something that specialized.

I build for that sort of thing all the time. Same cadence range too. That BBSHD pulling hard up hills is going to cause some specific stresses that you want to build for and deal with. I am going to do a Cliffs Notes version here and skip a lot of detail for the sake of covering everything in...

That may very well be. I know of other manufacturers who started out with KTs but ended up putting something in cheaper later on. Its likely to happen if the seller wants to put on a prettier display as KT controllers must be used with KT displays I can do that on mine (setting C5=0 so full...

Show everyone the video you showed me on the other forum. It gives a whole different picture of the problem. I'm curious to see if other people saw what I did. Don't want to give anything away and give people pre-conceived notions so I won't describe it.

Usually you can only pick springs on high end rear bike suspension shocks. I have a Rockshox that I put a 560 lb spring on back when I was a bit tubbier than I am now, to be able to get the right at-rest sag value. Springs on front forks tend to only be used on the cheap ones. And spring...

Yes, this problem is essentially impossible to solve without a test ride. I would not even trust someone else's experience because for all you know one production batch of a bike vs. the other uses a different controller with different behavior. My solution to this is to find a controller...

Looks like a kart chain (google "219H") and yes that should last forever. But thats a custom solution that has no bearing on a mid drive bike that is made to have gears to run thru. Not regular attention. But using a geared hub motor like they do on a big heavy trike is absolutely the way you...

Yeah sure the tool is strong. The alloy crankarms not so much. The steel threads of the tool can pull right thru the arms when you get serious about the pulling part and the arms are cheapies. The Park removal tool is made of good, hard steel. Thats what your 18 bucks pays for. The reason...

Yes its supposed to do that. Your contention was that doing that was a bad thing for the chain's longevity. But it isn't. Even if you did pedal you would have next to no power going thru your drivetrain, since a hub motor powers thru the axle. Drivetrains on DTC hub motor ebikes tend to be...

here... 9 bucks and you get a whip with good leverage, a second freewheel tool and a cassette tool to boot. https://amzn.to/4gHHsPS And for once the Park crank puller is reasonably priced as these things go. https://amzn.to/4guKAyP I have the Park chain whip and its $35 and its really long...

The freewheel tool is fine. its the crank remover I would be afraid of. You strip threads on a crankarm and you are truly f**ked. And the chain whip is too short to be really any good. The park crankarm remover is only like $18 and a decent chain whip is maybe $10. Pounding on the holes is...

You are completely wrong about that. Building a mid drive ebike ups the ante on the required competence of the builder. When someone not up to the task decides to build one anyway, the incompetent builder promptly blames the equipment instead of looking in the mirror and taking responsibility...