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Maybe one of the reaspns I love my "fixed" Huffy Oslo: The bike, lugguage, and requisite old guy CPAP fit in the boot of a VW Golf!

In addition to 2 screws on the water bottle bosses I also use silicon chaulk to glue the battery cradle to the down tube. It's been working well for me.

I really like the Ergon hand grips, but you need to check the fit of you to your bike to see if the problem is there. Why spend money treating the symptoms when can can cure the disease. Though, those grips just might solve your problem. Regardless, they're worth the money, imho.

Are you going to buy and install a torque sensor on your existing ebike?

With a hub drive and going up a steep incline you need your legs to keep the motor happy. Then hub motors are great, and not so bad if you got the gears.

If you want a hub drive to climb a steep hill with less leg effort you just need to feed it more watts. Yes, the mid-drive motor can be placed in an advantageous drive ratio, so the motor can turn at an ideal rpm, but Jeremy's ebike is also a highly evolved electrically assisted bicycle. So, if...

Not yet, at least.

I've had my Trek 7.2 for something like twenty years and it has cable pull disc brakes. It's been a mid-drive electric for two years, and I've never had a problem with the brakes. And now you guys have got me worried! Time to check those twenty-year-old pads, I guess.

There will be mountains of cheap ebikes in the not too distant future. Maybe I'll pick their bones -- like what I do now, feasting on the heaps of discarded aucoustic bicycles.

This is from BigBattery.com: "Lithium batteries are not likely to suffer any noticeable damage unless you store them at consistently extreme temperatures such as under 20 degrees or over 100 degrees Fahrenheit. Nevertheless, keeping them at a comfortable temperature is ideal for battery...

In my mind there is only one way to "fix" a cheap bicycle and that is a new bike, which you can do piece by piece or complete. Cheap bikes hurt me just to look at them, and when at times I end up with one I diassemble it into it's elemental form and recycle it.

Should be most mid-drives and geared hub motors, and even a direct-drive hub motor can be electronically "freewhweeled". Though, all ebikes seem to pedal with a lot of deadweight when go to to 0 PAS.

That's some cool gear, but 89 quid is 116 dollars!

Buy a new PAS crank sensor unit with the same magnet count and a Julet plug. Install their magnet wheel and place the sensor per the installation instructions. Though, you might need to enter the set-up mode and your display can't do that.

I really like the Kenda Marathon Plus tires for road ebiking.

There are controllers that put a small amount of power into the motor and it eliminates the cogging resistance of a direct-drive motor. On my Grin equipped bike, at 0 PAS the motor is fed 1w. It pedals like a regular, albeit heavy, bicycle.

Have you ever thought about going to a high amp direct-drive hub motor. Something like the 1500w Leafbike motor. If you know your top motorized speed, and steepest hills, then you can figure the motor kv and the voltage needed. People compensate for hills with high amps, and compensate for the...

Thanks for that rabbit hole Jeremy. Though I will never ride on a 4 inch fatty, even at 1/2 bar!

Yep, as far as ebikes, there's no enforcement at all where I'm at (Western Washington).

Well Jeremy, you have gone over to the dark side. A mid-drive, how could you do it! Seriously, though, if the gearing and fit is right for you, you'll love it.