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if you have a bosch or specialized or such they use a lot of sensors including cadence. without all those its never as smooth.

Yes thats my commute.

I am not even riding that much you guys must be slackers :D I only wrote 60 miles. It wasn't commuting.

all that you seem to get is a display that shows cars side by side like the Bonjager one does. you get more lights though

he is on a road bike so you're kinda stuck. but if you had a 20t-50 it would make a big difference. on our tandem, we did a 22% grade and we put out 450 watts the motor was bottomed out and we just made it. when I did 550 watts it about killed me but I still found the bosch had not quite reached...

nope unless really low gearing. to climb a 20% grade on my trek and keep the rpms around 80 I had to put out 550 watts. in turbo you may get up a 20% grade in turbo and only put out 200 watts. but remember that motor will only put out that much torque if you're putting out a s*it ton of torque...

Plus your stuck with a free hub with lousy gearing unless you have a grin motor

I would need extremely low gearing. then otor will bottom out when the rider puts out a max of about 600 watts.

you need the wheel rebuilt replacing the spokes won't fix it. find a shop that can do it it needs to be rebuilt by someone who knows what they are doing. but if it uses those big spokes it may be limited who can do the work.

got the govee lights set up as it was a warm day today. they are longer than really work on the bike, but I made it work. they are for under-car use. but they have so much better colors and brightness and movement and flashing then the motorcycle cheapy lights I had.

got some much nicer replacement lights for the tandem. they are govee brand they are much brighter more colors and are fully programmable instead of some cheap remote. It's still more wire than I want but not as bad as the others with all other connections. plus they cost less wish I had known...

did you get the tool because I posted it here?

somehow she managed to do this to herself so its even more funny,

ya my sore spot was the wheels. I chose it as it uses the batteries I already had for the extra battery. Plus there were not as many choices as there are now. but the 2" tires help especially with slick tires. but would have rater had 700c wheels.

ust got 14,000 miles on my trek, allant 8+ in a little less than 3 years. my first bosch bike I got 14,000 miles in 2 years, then the motor rusted out. so, let's see approx, five chains on the 3rd cassette (my first bike, I got the whole 14,000 out of one cassette) one chainring back wheel...

Man, Santa is mad at me. got a puncture in the front and back tire on the way to work yesterday. The front sealed fine back was low on sealant and air so I plugged it and used co-2 when I got to work I added more sealant the front had plenty when I checked. I guess I got a puncture in the front...

I never drove so my navigation skills were null when I started riding more. sometimes even following my GPS I miss things like I can't see the street sign so don't know to turn there or when I start you cant always tell what direction you need to start.

sure how cheap is your brain box? there are cheap Chinese ones but there 52.00...

well on the hub only if you're going full speed.

The thing is, the mid-drive motor speed is set by how fast you pedal. The optimum speed is around 80 to 90 rpms cadence. . A hub drive needs to be at its highest speed to be efficient. that's maybe 28mph or whatever the gear is set at.. so if you climb hills or not going flat out it is never at...