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The edges on the schwalbe liner don't feel sharp to me. The material feels like soft vinyl. No issues on first use today with the conti tube & new schwalbe tire. I'm feeling somewhat confident that this may be the last of these inner tube inside diameter flats.

Can you post some pictures of the fork? I've never heard of frank brand other then some components for the new AIR bike. The only 700c forks seems to be Suntour or Rock Shox.

I just got 700x22 Schwalbe liners after having second thoughts about the Ritchy 17mm liner I had installed in place of some fabric liners. Here's how they fit in a new free state. Pretty much wall to wall, but I'm sure they'll retract a little once the inner tube pushes them into the center...

I wonder if it will really go back to that $1300 msrp. Good that they advertising high pressure rim strips now. Looks like the different battery sizes will be interchangeable between the AIR & CC plus a buyback program to boot. Major savings over the CC: Brakes Cadence Simpler top tube on the...

No issues using Sport mode for 16 miles one way in relatively flat Chicago area. One to two bars left for this distance with a 10.4 so 60%-80% drain. You can work pretty hard in Sport mode trying stay above 26mph. I actually wish there was a little more power (500w?) to help maintain sport mode...

It's just that seeing https://www.schwalbetires.com/tech_info/rim_tape casts doubt about my rim strip width selection. According to Schwalbe it should span from inside wall to wall. If I measure correctly that would be about 22mm for the CC rims.

Though the tire is likely still good since the casing isn't compromised I probably will replace it just for peace of mind. I can see the slice cut into the greenguard liner. Also on 2nd thought I should've gone with the Schwalbe rim strips instead of these Ritchy's as they're only 17mm wide...

Got my rim strips & new inner tubes today. Going back to the Giant tubes I could feel a thick seam between the bulges where they failed. The made in China Conti's feel uniform all around so the quality of those other tubes could've played a part in their failure. After getting it all installed...

I bought a park tension meter to try to work this out on my own. Waiting to see if they can provide a tension spec for this unbranded rim. Currently the drive side is 130 Kgf & 100 on the other side. Also gonna switch to Continental Tour 700x32-47 inner tubes hoping that better quality inner...

I do inflate the tire a little so it has some volume to avoid bunching inside the tire. What you see in the pictures were the same issues I had with most of the flats in the beginning when I got the bike which I thought I had fixed through deburring the spoke holes & switching to the cloth rim...

The tires with these rims are so loose that I can install & remove without tire irons which surprised me when I first took off the tire since I;m use to having to use them with my other bikes. Also scares me since the inner tube will blow out the tire if not careful to make sure it's seated...

Anyone one else have continuing issues with rear flats? I'm on my 5th or 6th inner tube now. It was ok for about 2-3 month & then I suddenly got two flats recently after having to deflate & re-inflate to replace a spoke. The blowouts came soon after this. Luckily this happened not during...

I don't have a Toppeak rack, but the drive side dropout does stick out more due to the torque sensor. Also the holes on the dropouts aren't aligned for perfect rack mounting so what you're seeing is normal. I use a different rack with some mods to get it centered. The fork has these mounts &...

I can only maintain 14-15mph without assist. My only other experience is with Bionx which felt similar unassisted. I thought geared hubs were suppose to be have less cogging then direct drive.

I just may go for the smaller cheaper stuff at a local autoparts/home improvement store. The DC tubes are pretty big that I will never use it up. Going to get replacement display & wire harness, but in the meantime this temporary fix has worked to keep the contact going. The assist seems to be...

Looked it up and expensive. Thought might have some at work, but closest thing is Dow Corning Molykote 111. That should work too? Data sheets show that both are very similar.

Not sure if this would affect the assist, but I think this has been the issue with my CC's blinking display & shutting down. Looks like corrosion in the connector from the display. I've read that dielectric grease will prevent this.

It is a 10.4 & it didn't bother me because it doesn't get seen. It could also be put in the frame instead of the battery and accompish the same thing. The bottom battery is the new one I was sent. Other then the missing velcro I though it was odd where they placed the stickers. And I did get...

My CC is very unreliable atm due to the display flashing & then shutting down for some unknown reason. The PAS is also troublesome to engage at times. A new controller & battery unfortunately have not fix this. I have over 2200 miles on it. The replacement battery I got did not have the velcro...

What are the symptoms? Today I saw some odd behavior today with my display having all the assist LED's lit & blinking at once & it then shut down twice towards the end of my 16 mile one way commute. I have a little over 1,600 miles on the bike. I've ridden on days in the 90's & haven't noticed...