Search results

30Nm is too much for an M8 fine pitch thread. 22Nm is mentioned in that service manual and I wouldn't go above 20Nm unless you have a good quality wrench.

I suspect it's supply chain driven

First I knew about it. Good on the OP for posting the question...

If the LBS won't or can't supply the separate cassette gears.... https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33001503535.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.15434c4dOWXJVQ Replaced my two smallest gears once so far, but still on original chain and cassette at 6000km and bike has to haul me up 360m of fairly steep...

Noticed the rear hub had a developed a rumble when spinning the wheel. Stripped the cup & cone bearings and found the drive side balls had shed their chrome and the cone was well pitted. Grease was silver and full of metal. Non-drive side was clear and green, cone had a small amount of pitting -...

Interesting find David. I don't think the designed free-play they refer to is responsible for the creaks we get on our bikes. Personally, I wouldn't leave a creak in the BB area. There's a lot of force being transmitted down there and bad things happen quickly when play develops. Ovalised motor...

Sorry to hear about your bike Alan, that sucks. I think the 2019 Quick E+ was a great year - the Fastroad that replaced it was only supplied with a 400W battery. Maybe a hard tail mtb would suit you better? Similar price bracket as a commuter, but better off road. WFH suit you? Seems to be the...

OP prob needs to tighten the crank bolts - routinely work their way loose...

" I was going uphill in a medium gear and encountered a steep incline on loose gravel. I was under full power and tried shifting into the lowest gear as the rear wheel began to spin." That's the problem right there, regardless of derailleur tuning/hanger integrity.

As already mentioned, headset is first thing to check. Forks always have some bushing play in order to function; some more than others. If it's very sloppy, I'd be talking to the dealer about a replacement fork (replacing bushings is a specialised job that most shops would not be up for).

Cover your rotors and spray the snot out of the controller and display. Wipe off any excess.

Wrong - (about silicon damaging rubber, not your condom lubricant - I've got no opinion on that). https://www.crc.co.nz/808-Silicone/6895-15e667c2-8e92-4224-8674-7086168c93ea/ You could use silicon grease or sealant around the cable ports for a longer lasting effect, depends how much...

I put XT Trail SPDs on my QuickE+. Ran flats for a while but I like being clipped when jumping kerbs and always having correct foot placement means my heels don’t hit the stand/stays. The EH500 would be a good compromise commuter pedal.

Big Ben Plus 2.0 are dreadful on wet asphalt - very hard compound. On the plus side they are quite puncture resistant IME. Have ordered Marathon Almotion Evo 2.15 hoping for some better road grip.

Sounds like something you should ask your dealer, given their tool is the only way of resetting such things...

951 was my dream bike in 2014. Not sure about do-it-all, but it will certainly cope with the downs... post some pics

Apologies from me too, didn't mean to come across as a jackass..

Don’t forget the $600 range extender

That's one big lever you got there... no surprise you're having issues with front end tracking, but really you should always set fork sag, rebound etc regardless of the spring type (coil or air). Trusting it to some factory setting after going to all that effort is a bit daft. Aim for 20-25% sag...

Welcome - don't mean to rain on your parade but given your requirements I'd take them back and buy a Trek Allant+ 7S. They come in a couple of frame styles, have 500W batteries, 45kmph motor and all the acccessories you seem to require. Giant seem to have lost their way lately...