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I tried something similar and ended up at the same position as that picture. If I use the red button as the start position, full throttle would be rotated out of the way, especially since I end up using the heel of my thumb to press.

I think the only way to lower it further is to use a something like the original handlebar, and turn the sweep down towards the ground. Some people like that look.

Mine came off fairly easily. I lined up the split like this: so that it wouldn't slip. Plus I used a 12" pipe that I always found to be helpful anytime I need something loosen. It fits over wrench handles and socket wrenches. Bought the pipe specifically for extra torque.

On the Rover, that tool isn't going to get pass the nut holding the wheel without splitting it. And you can't remove the nut because the hole on the nut is smaller than the connector for the wire. Here's what I had to do to mine when I posted about changing the freewheel earlier in this thread.

One thing about the bag mod was that while it looks great, I found the charging port a bit of a pain to get to. So I got a short right angle extension. That made charging so much easier. The cable actually came a little thicker than the pic on ebay. Here it is next to the Radrover's charging...

I like your idea of lowering the LCD by moving it forward & lower. I have something a little different in mind which I might try. I'm thinking of turning the current bracket upside down and then use a piece of steel or aluminum to extend it forward.

I have the Radrover, but probably be the same. They are size M5 (+ likely 15mm long), and are available in Homedepot. Water bottle cage screws are usually M5 so maybe use those as temps. Btw, grab some lock washers, plus the previously suggested Loctite.

I used water. Inject water underneath using one of those injectors people use for filling inkjet cartridges. It doesn't damage the grips because it's rubber under the leather. I've seen people recommend using compress air also.

Just had a chance to test out the new freewheel gearing. First, I had to re-adjust the rear derailleur. It looks like the DNP freewheel is slightly offset, every gear is ~2 to 3 mm further away from the hub. I couldn't shift to the 11 t gear until I adjusted the derailleur. The 11 t gear is...

Ok, a little bit of OCD kicked in and I had to finish this mod. I don't have a bike stand so I hoisted the bike up a few inches using a rope tied to the garage ceiling. The split tool worked perfectly, the old freewheel came off easily. I had left enough spurs in splitting the tool that it still...

For future reference, when others start contemplating swapping out the freewheels on their Radrover, Radmini or other electric bikes with similar wiring. On the left is an old Shimano freewheel tool I got years ago with a 10mm opening (same as Park), and on the right is the DNP epoch tool with...

Good news. I just received the above linked DNP freewheel tool from Amazon and the opening at the other end is just a hair over 18mm.

The freewheel on the Rover is tricky, I think it's the same situation on the mini also. The wire for the motor comes out of middle of the hub there and is connected to the controller via a connector. The tricky part is getting freewheel tool pass that connector to get to the freewheel. I...

Huh. I always thought the oem was a 11-28 freewheel for some reason. But I just counted and you guys are right, it's a 14-28 freewheel. No wonder I'm always on the highest gear. So replacing the freewheel is the best option, though replacing the chainring is less work. Btw, the chainring on the...

I've thought about it before. But have put it in the back burner since it's winter + lots of rain and I haven't ridden lately. It's a 104mm 4 bolt 42T chainring that's slightly offset. The only issue is anything bigger than 42T will be flat so that the current chainguard will be closer to the...

They look good though. Looks exactly like the fenders that the Big O company sells for the RadRover (before Big O changed to the adjustable U-stays).

Since I hardly ever go throttle-only, I had to go outside and test it just to be sure. Within one block, throttle only, I went a little over 23 mph going either direction. That takes care of any hill and or wind.

Yes I have, quite a few times.

The throttle is a great feature. Takes away the hassle of having to get your crank into position to start pedaling at stops. About the 20 mph limit. On the Rover, you can easily change it to 40 kph, which corresponds to 24.85 mph in the settings menu. I think the review of the Radcity also...

Yep, it's easier with clipless pedals if you want to spin that fast. Though I thought about swapping out the front 42T chainring for something bigger, like 44t or even 46t. Looking at the specs of the Radcity, it looks similar to the RR: single chainring plus 7 gears in the back, except for...