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To put the power needed to recharge a battery into perspective, to recharge a 36v battery at 2a, you would be required to produce 72w. A fairly decent non pro cyclist can maintain 175-210w for about an hour. Can you imagine how hard it would be to pedal if cycling on its own (at a fair pace)...

It works as such with 24v but it's very very low power due to the Jap laws it needed to comply with, 250w, max of 1:2 assistance below 10kph, no assistance much above 20kph. I've managed to find an exploded diagram of the motor which shows the hall sensor and coil location so I think I can tap...

I went with a rear hub, as much as it pained me to lose the 3 speed rear hub. I had to change the brakes as I also converted to deep 700c rims. All electrics and battery are in a 1970s pannier bag. The original lights now have warm white LEDs, which are powered off the usb port on my battery...

Not likely. It's currently only being charged to 25.2v rather than it's max of 29.4v. The cells are likely around 13 years old so a repack is in order anyway, along with a bms. Repacking is my little sideline money maker. This is a recent 36v to 48v I built.

Recently picked up this Yamaha powered Bridgestone JDM ebike, running a 24v system. The BMS has failed so been bypassed. It's a smart bms but oddly the bike still works fine albeit with no voltage or km remaining on the display or chajrge lights on the battery. It's got a few weird things...

1st ride if the year a few days ago on the vintage electric, to an almost deserted beach. My bikes 50 years old this year!

There are at least 2 types of carrier. One sort like in the pic is pressed steel, the other is tube steel. I've got the tube steel type.

Yes, however you'll be limited to 13a @48v which is approx 620w.

You might be able to get a cheap EasyMotion EasyGoRace 2nd hand? Add a bigger battery on the frame for some extended range. If you're up for mods for more speed, it's hub will take +700w.

I have just a basic lock but my bike has a wireless key-fob remote to power the bike up, a movement sensor (a siren goes off if the bike is moved) and a GPS tracker. The one thing I'd love to fit would be a relay to short 2 phases of the motor so the hub becomes an electric brake, but I've got...

My bike is converted to electric, using a single speed hub. I got it from a wrecked easy motion bike. 36v 13a gets me 21mph, 48v @13a gets me 25mph. I think the gearing is 46/16T. At 25mph, to be honest is too fast for me to pedal so at that speed the bike is doing all the work.

I'm heading into my 2nd Raleigh build. This one will be 500w. This one will be another rear hub drive like my last one, but this time I'll lace the small rear hub into a factory rim to keep it even more hidden. The rear pannier will hold the battery, imobliser/alarm, speed controller and a...

Id have thought a tight new chain would have more frictional loss than a sloppy worn one.

Looks very good!

Id have liked to used my new hubs on the original rims for extra stealth but the cost to get rims laced is expensive now!

Some bikes use a torque sensor that goes between the frame and the rear axle, rather than being in the bottom bracket, Ive only even seen them on a hub drive bike.

Of hub vs mid drive, the biggest difference in feel between both will be the cadence sensor on the hub drive vs the torque sensor on the mid. Id greatly like to hear of someone who has ridden both, using a cadence sensor.

sorted that thread title ;)

haha I'm normally the spelling Nazi!

The set should clean up faily well, most rusted surfaces of the bike gave come up with a clean but aged look after a scrub with a brass brush. Hopefully the kids seat should come up the same. At this stage the padding wll be replaced with worn wood from an old kids school chair. Below are the...