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No need to unplug. Just turn off the external battery with the power button on it.

I recommend you take it to a bike shop so they can determine what fits/works. Even if the bottom bracket fits, your front derailleur isn't made to work with those sized chainrings you want.

I'm not sure I would like that kind of control system. I think I'd rather manually select the power output of the bike; or at least have the option to do so.

I had that problem. My headset expansion plug was loose and needed to be repositioned and tightened; otherwise just tightening the screw in the headset cap just pulls up the plug and doesn't tighten the headset.

Anyone had the freewheel off the motor? If so, is there a way to remove some of the play in the freewheel?

I wonder why they didn't go with a 12 speed drivetrain instead of the 11, which would give a wider gear range and/or less jumps between gears? Other than the wide Q factor and the hefty price, the 1x drivetrain is a big negative with this bike, at least in my experience. I think a 2x drivetrain...

Cadence is motor rpm. Elevation gain is recorded by the GPS in your phone, which is very inaccurate. My Garmin Edge 810, for instance, uses a barometric altimeter. I have an old Garmin watch that doesn't have a barometric altimeter and used GPS only. It would grossly over count elevation gain...

I think I'd rather manage power consumption manually to get the requisite amount of miles than have some phone app do it. It probably reduces your power in the eco mode, which I tried with the Gain, but didn't like it. I'd rather ride unpowered for the easier (flatter) sections early in the ride...

Orbea advertises 100 km range with the Gain which has a 248 Wh battery. If the Gain had the bigger Creo battery (320 Wh), it would go 80 miles too ((320/248) * 100km * .62 mi/km = 80 mi).

I see where Specialized now has a less expensive Creo Turbo Creo SL Comp Carbon $6,500.00 Trek now has the Domane+ LT with the Fazua Evation system for the same price. I think the Specialized emotor is a better design and has a 28 mph cutoff speed vs. 20 and the capability of adding auxiliary...

This must mean that the chainwheel is not attached directly to the cranks, but is instead driven by the motor. I can't see how there is no drag when pedaling with the power off or above the cutoff speed because for the crank to turn the chainwheel, it must have to go through the gearing, etc...

That's not correct. Once you reach the cutoff speed on an Ebikemotion x35 bike, the motor cuts off and you are not wasting battery.

The East Bay Regional Park District owns the major bike trails in the area. They've currently allowed Class 1 and 2 ebikes only on a limited portion of the trail system and banned them from the dirt trails in the regional parks. That doesn't keep people from riding ebikes on the trails though...

I could be wrong, but I think the ebikemotion system power profile varies dependent upon speed (I.e., there is a power curve built-in to the controller). I read a review comparing the two bikes and the reviewer preferred the ebikemotion equipped bike. It said the ebikemotion bike had more power...

It's a little more than that, as power is applied more or less depending on speed of the bike. There's a power profile built into the control system. Torque sensors are needed for bottom bracket motors because you don't want a lot of power being applied to the cranks when you make a shift. Hub...

Fwiw, I have a gravel/touring bike with 38 mm tires and a road bike with 25 mm tires. I'm at least 1 mph faster average speed on rides on the bike with the narrower tires and I feel it's more efficient on the road. It is lighter though, which may make some of the difference.

Anyone tried wider tires on their Gain? I did a bike tour recently and some of the roads were in bad shape, including some dirt. Would have been a smoother ride with wide tires (I've got some 38mm tires as spares for my gravel bike). Wondering how much they would slow me down.

Does the app in the motor settings say you are at 20%? When you make changes there, you have to save or else they won't.

That seems to be like mine. I would say your system is working OK.

See my power output chart in post #66 above. How does your's compare to mine? Mine is putting out about 90 watts in L1. That's a significant amount of power.