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Just wanted to do an update for those of you interested how the bike handles in actual use after a few months: The two smaller sprockets on the rear cassette got annihilated and had to be cannibalized from a different cassette. The inwards-curving Ergon grips absolutely do not work on this type...

I ride at 20psi. At 30psi (the recommended maximum), your tire turns into wood and you lose any cushioning. Lower pressures are best reserved for rough terrain, sand and snow.

I support pretty much all of the above. Also a FullFatSix owner. I've had a chance to experience the Frey "Hunter" model and, to be honest, you really do get what you pay for. The Bafang Ultra is powerful but very unrefined and requires immediate tuning (default Ultra settings are way off), the...

Shwalbe Big Fat Larry would be another option. Also, if it's the noise that bothers you, you can run Surly Bud — they do have rather large pronounced knobs, but this is a front-specific tire so they are in the direction of travel, ergo, no noise — and some additional stability, too.

You might want to start with these fenders.

Yeah, if I had to give advice, I'd say 203 front and 180 rear is fine, that's what I have on my bikes. The rotor of choice is Shimano Ice Tech (beautiful!) and in terms of brakes I'd go for Shimano Saints.

Based on these photos, you have 180mm rotors (not 160). I could be wrong though, but it definitely looks like 160-180 adapters on there both front and rear. Mind double-checking this? Your bike spec says 180-160 but they look 180-180 to me.

Well the two front hubs are more or less independent with nearly infinite clearance around them, so theoretically you could put any tire on them — 3", 3.8", 4.8". But if this affects whether or not you can fit the entire thing in your car then it's difficult to say.

You are right about the conventional wisdom: typically the rear tire creates the movement, and the front tire is meant to roll. However, there are a few additional issues. One is cornering stability. A 3.6" tire has awful cornering experience. You have to really slow down and be very careful...

You cannot arbitrarily add additional spacers. Your fork has already been cut to a specific size so you cannot just add additional rings on top without a stem riser like someone above has already posted. My recommendation is to simply buy a new stem with a very large angle (like, 45° or so)...

Has anyone compared Supercells with Big Fat Larrys?

Congrats on the bike! You can make progressive improvements to the bike to make it better. For example, from what I know, Bafang's spider and chainring are both solid steel, so you can get ones that are 4× lighter (at least that's the case for their Ultra motor, don't know about this one)...

I run no less than 3.8" on the front (on a non-fatbike), and the feeling is superlative. I honestly don't care that the wheel on the back is a meager 2.6", this is just too good, regardless of bicycle. It's not for everyone though, since it's not a particularly cheap set-up. Here's how you do...

Why not just go for their "Full Fat" model?

I have encountered this issue when building fatbike wheels on 110mm hubs. The solution has always been to move to a larger rotor size plus, on occasion, I filed away some of the brake caliper material. That said, brake calipers are all different — a Shimano XT caliper is much more narrow than...

First of all, even though ebike-specific forks exist, the jury is still out on whether or not they give the desired benefit, so I wouldn't worry about this too much. Regarding what fork to get, you are looking for a tapered steerer fork; I'd go for about 120mm since you can always nudge the...

Look at the motor clearance in the above pictures; I don't believe R&M would push the motor lower, it's already very prone to pedal strikes as it is. I suspect the geometry is identical in both cases. This would also explain the angle of the rear shock; then again, its placement is different.

I've already mentioned this before, but Bosch CX and Bosch Speed (pre-2020) is the same motor, just with different firmware. Yet, for some reason, R&M charged €500 more for the Speed version, which looks like a blatant cash grab. It's not really an issue to buy a 45kph bike, I can even...

Of course. I'm not surprised they decided to axe a €400 light from their build while continuing to charge exactly the same price for the bike. Cost optimization! It is my hope that the public votes with their wallet. If it will be possible to derestrict Yamaha then people would go for that. I'd...

Note it says planning — delivery from China takes quite some time, I'm afraid!