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I just discovered that if you click on someones user name and hit "Ignore", then all of their past and future postings will magically disappear, never to be seen again.

Do they want the bad battery sent back? Because, if not, I bet you could get it repaired cheaper than a new one. Then you'd have two. Batteries+Bulbs has a repair service. If not, I'll take it.

I'm not really sure of the function. Lectric manual calls it "throttle active/inactive" but someone posted this picture: that shows P09 describing something more like what you are experiencing.

It's 500w continuous 800w peak. which means he's already climbing the hills at 800w and the motor is not keeping up. I believe He needs a motor with more torque. You can overdrive a motor on the flats and get more speed, but hills are different.

try watching this: https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailleur-adjustment

check setting P09, should be 0 (zero start). this is an unlocked setting edited: I originally thought it was locked setting.

You'd have to change the hub motor too.

HA! Good answer.

Just curious, when talking about shipping, why do some of you blank out part of your order number? Like: "I just got word that #4#2 is shipping". Is it some kind of security issue?

the adjustment screw is in the same place.

Any binding on the drive train will affect the person pedaling, but not the motor. it turns independently (with the exception of the brakes). Battery fluctuation is normal and will be more pronounced the more the battery drains.

I have no experience with the new style latches, but I think they should be the same as the old to adjust. here's a generic video on how it's done: https://www.voltbike.com/help-center/article/how-to-adjust-folding-latch-on-voltbike-urban?___store=USD

Here's something you may not know. If you long push mode+up arrow, you can cycle through currant, Max, and average speed

no, that's a cassette meant for a freehub, you need a freewheel.

Good point!

I dont think so. That's the purpose of the washers with the tabs that everyone is having trouble with. This washer is not "slotted" to the axle so wouldn't function as a torque arm. I believe it's there to act as "lawyer lips" (look it up). Bikes usually have tabs on the frame dropouts that...

True, I probably shouldn't have advocated throwing it out. I did it because it just looks like training wheels to me, and it's really hard to remove the nut on that side with a large crescent wrench while that's in place. If you use a socket or box wrench, then no problem. I've never had one...

I thought about doing that, and I'll probably do that in the future, but that would put the frame in a different position buy about 1/8 inch on each side and I'd have to adjust the brake and derailleur to compensate. Granted, I would only have to do it once, but I chose the lazy route this time...

Okay, as promised here's my method for taking off the rear tire. I flipped the bike upside down and rested the back end on a tote and the front handlebars on some foam blocks to keep the shifter and stuff off the ground . Shift your bike to its highest gear so the chain is on the smallest ring...

But it does matter what kind of lock you have. 13mm hardened steel that takes two cuts to open vs cheap U-lock that's not hardened and only takes one cut. I dont think you can put a grinder to a hardened chain very easily because you need to steady it to make the cut. Given a bike rack fill of...