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I'd find a bike shop that has the tools. I see Park Tool has the die for $290 and the rest of the stuff to do it with probably. Park tool might have a list of places that could do it or they may be able to.

Last couple days I've ridden/rode/driven the Cattrike Expedition. It's a fun machine. On those long uphill ascents I was looking for the + button on the handlebar. Just have to grit it out:)

Or use the die, put it in a socket, put an extension on the socket so you can eyeball the assy and keep it in line with the tube, use cutting oil or some lubricant, and go at it! Good luck and be careful. Getting it started straight is the trick and how much thread there is to cut may effect...

Don’t think so. Just stirring the pot 😁. I do think there are s lot of generalities being made though. One being there is one best lube for the job.

That might be something to do on a lathe. Once you find the correct die.

I have yet to see a test where someone took a chain apart and showed us the debris inside, or cleaned the outside of a chain then recleaned it again and showed the debris inside a chain, all which sounds like almost impossible. Now I ride on pavement, if my chain ever got to the point of...

It pretty much says, use whatever you want:)

How did you come up with that conclusion? I don't understand your thought.

I believe contamination picked up on a drive train is being constantly displaced by the moving parts. Just as lubricant is being displaced from between roller and pin and side plates. All the debris and lubricant is looking for a resting place. It’s also being displaced from between the...

People are already doing that for a lot less.

What role does dirt or foreign matter play in wear on a chain? And let’s see the proof. And the second part to that would be how does it compare to metal on metal wear.

This place runs out of gas there is gonna be a lot of bike lanes:)

I was using a dry moly for a while and wasn’t getting very good longevity. When I tested debris off the chain it was magnetic. So I quit using it. It might work better as an ingredient rather than 100%.

I had a bucket of group 4 synthetic oil left over from the race car days I’m gonna try to use up. For the first time in decades I didn’t have any gear oil for some reason. The stuff is nasty slippery and has good shock absorption or vibration damping characteristics. Group IV base oils...

I was on paraffin wax for a while. I gave it a try. I'm going to go the gear oil or heavy motor oil for a while and see how that makes me feel. I think I can do better with something that flows. When the chain is on the big or small cog there is a lot of offset that a lot or most of these...

Here you go.

Well s*it man! I thought I found the holy grail. I'll have to take a look at the Tern for comparison. I've been trying unsuccessfully to talk my brother or sister in to an electric. Can't give them bad info. Thanks Brendon.

Ok, I'm back. Found it to be pleasantly powerful for the hub drive. 5 power settings, 1 negligible, 2 had enough to move around in city traffic. Above that be careful you don't run into anything. The frame and rack appeared well made. There was no throttle available to use. For beginner...

I see my local lbs is supposed to have one in stock. I'm going down to see if I can get a test drive, I'll be back!

I found a can of Dupont chain saver that is wax based. Using it on my motorcycle chain for the rollers though the chain is sealed. I still like the straight paraffin on the bicycle chain. The canned stuff seems to be too runny and the virgin oil/paraffin mix 'stays' better.