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Here in Seattle, the difference is very noticeable. I find the Tinker Silent a bit underwhelming compared to the CX Vario and not powerful enough for particularly hilly cities personally, but I encourage you to test ride one for yourself if you're able. Also worth noting the Tinker is currently...

If memory serves, @Alaskan had this done on his wife's R&M...maybe that was a mech. Rohloff to E14... *nvm it was E14*

Nope, same thing. The connectors are tight because the system requires a very specific cable length to keep the lines under tension - if you've ever had a cable bind up inside your shifter and it wasn't the result of a total cable failure, it's because the lines were too loose - we get around...

The OD cable is generally pretty tight in my experience. A couple tips if you're having trouble: - make sure the barrel adjusters at the shifter are threaded in completely to increase the effective length of the cables (you'll want to thread them back out again after you get the cable ends in...

That's a bit of a head-scratcher - I don't have any at-home troubleshooting advice, but it wouldn't hurt to take it into a Bosch certified shop and have them do a fresh firmware install on the whole bike if you haven't already.

You can definitely upgrade the rear shock to air, but it's going to be harder to find an upgrade for the fork as there just aren't a lot of options for 20"

Just to clarify - you're checking the drive unit firmware ver. via Settings > My eBike > eBike Components > Drive Unit?

The system wont turn on from the batteries without a display installed - your practice of taking your Intuvia off to prevent theft is valid.

It turns the entire system on/off, not just the batteries - exactly like the power button on the display.

Like I said, R&M has no reason to utilize any "pull" with Rohloff because at the end of the day it's Rohloff's problem to solve, and R&M have nothing to gain by taking on that responsibility for one of their OEMs. Another thing to consider is that Rohloffs are completely serviceable; meaning...

This? You can turn the bike on/off with it (you have to press pretty firmly.) Off the bike, pressing it lights up LEDs that tell you the current charge of the battery.

@sammcneill You'll want to narrow your search to Enviolo cogs specifically as they have a special fitting vs Rohloff: The smallest size is 22t. https://www.gatescarbondrive.com/products/rear-sprockets?fitment=enviolo

You'll recall your Rohloff has it's own warranty, separate from your R&M warranty, making it Rohloff's problem to fix, not R&M's

They're usually $80-$100USD. Good luck, and let us know if your shop comes up with a better solution.

At a glance, it looks like the only option from Gates for a smaller cog is a 22T. I'm not able to test it right now, but the sliding dropouts might have enough range to cover a difference of two-teeth. That said, if my napkin math is right this will only increase your gearing by about 8.5%...

If you lack the clearence to install a bigger chainring, you can still increase the gearing by installing a smaller rear cog.

It's worth investigating the PSI and rebound settings on your rear shock before committing to shorter cranks. A good rule-of-thumb is (your weight in lbs)+10 = your shock PSI with the rebound being set based on that PSI (see attached.) If you do need to add a lot of air, put it in 20psi at a...

Have you checked the alignment of the spoke magnet and the speed sensor?

I've no idea.

That's going to be a B&M product - specifically an IQ-X Mounting Band. The newer light you mentioned seeing with the high-beams switch is a Supernova M99 Mini Pro-45 and it's spec'd on HS models.