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A loss of overdrive is the result of interface at the hub physically stopping about 2/3 of the way through it's rotation and this is reflected in on the shifter by the little man being unable to transition to what's illustrated as "flat ground."

On the Enviolo, the direction of the shifter that lowers the gearing is referred to as underdrive and the direction that increases the gearing is overdrive.

Sounds like they removed the old hub interface in one position and installed the new one in another. The fix is to remove it, reset the hub to full-overdrive and reinstall the interface in the proper position.

I work at an R&M dealership - none of the Smart system bikes ship with updated printed manuals, because, as mentioned, they haven't been printed yet.

That's because the new manual hasn't been printed yet - perks of being on the bleeding-edge of eBike ownership 😆 You can find the PDFs here.

The limiting mechanism is built into the lower section of the headset on MY20+ R&Ms - Either your bottom headset cup or your crown race were installed off-center or were shifted by the impact of a fall/crash. It may sound brutish, but the easiest way to fix this is to slam the bars hard in the...

Rohloff only makes one 4-bolt 180mm rotor in the 1.8mm thickness. Last time I went looking, there were a handful after-market options floating around, but all seem to just be different aesthetically rather than offering better performance or any additional features.

Along with putting less oil back in, it's helpful to let the cleaning fluid drain overnight beforehand.

It's going to be limited mostly by how long the brake lines are on your specific bike.

Glad it went off without a hitch. Curious - what did the silicone spray do to the old belt?

You've got the idea - remove those two black T40 bolts that hold the sliding driveside drop-out in place. After that it's just a matter of force. One tip is be careful not to pinch the belt while installing it - I recommend the plastic handle of a small screwdrive or something similar to keep...

The UBN is intended to be a lightweight, low(er)-power, low-range city bike. Comparing it to the trekking models from R&M is apples and oranges.

Brake lights mean you'll need to transplant the lever blade to the new master cylinder as mentioned above. It's a bit awkward to do it with the connector still in the bike, but not complicated. If you're going to DIY it, I recommend installing the brake hose into new master cylinder before...

Does your bike have brake lights? If not, Magura sells a version of the master cylinder assembly with the 3-finger ball-end lever without the brake light sensor installed - part number is 2701220. If you're comfortable with bleeding brakes, installation is pretty straight-forward, otherwise I'd...

Given that the bolt appears to have sheared off in the lever body, you'll want a Magura MT5 Master Cylinder Assembly. Your bike also looks to be HS? If so, you'll need to transplant the lever blade with the brake sensor to the new master cylinder as the cable length for the sensor appears to be...

How do you mean? My point being the system has gotten a lot more complex in the last six years. 2016 - One display - One DU Hardware w/ 3 firmware options - One Battery Standard - No dualbatt 2022 - Six display options (Not counting EU Nyon which has it's been discontinued) - Three DU...

A lot's changed since Gen2. I agree firmware updates were less important back then than they are now with Gen4/Gen5, but this is mostly because there are so many more features now than there were in 2016.

You can feel the extra weight for sure, but I wouldn't go so far as to say it impacts handling in my personal experience.

The disparity in speed readout is due to the Bosch system referencing a physical speedometer instead of GPS. As has been mentioned, the solution is adjusting the wheel circumference setting.

Have you had it serviced recently? The lockout switch should be replaceable.