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How much did you shorten the wire on the light? Here's morning footage of how the light performs alone on my CCX. Toyed with the idea of getting their brake tail light, but that will have to come later.

Ordered from bike discount shipped 18th DHL received 28th USPS.

The plate sounds like it's there to also serve as a heatsink transfering heat from the controller to the frame. R & S feel pretty similar to me. I've read that 34mph is supposed to be easily achievable with R, but I feel like I hit a wall around 32. 0 mode does result in no assist according to...

Asked in reddit & someone mentioned FET's & this sounds like the issue. The short at the wires pushed a bunch of volts into the switch component inside the controller causing it to short.

Rode about 13 miles today & the bike felt like it was operating normally other then the light issue. I'm still concerned about possible long term damage though.

Same with stock light except some flicker when turning off. Power isn't cutoff instantly with that button on the battery. Tested stand & torque sensor seems functional. I'm just afraid if the light control circuitry is fried what else may pop up. The bike is around 3k with the parts swap &...

The light automatically turns on when the battery main switch is pressed. The display show only 4w even with the light on. But the button to turn on the light does bring up the icon & backlit display still function & then shows 6w.

I haven't taken it for a ride yet, but the display appears to work normally except that the switch for the light doesn't work. Throttle is responsive so controller is not dead. The only odd behavior so far is that the light will turn on the instant the controller gets power.

Stupidly wiring new lights while connectors were connected & not realizing bike was still on at the display. Shorted it after touching wires with stripping tool. Now the light switch at the display doesn't work & the light only responds to the main battery switch. I haven't tried riding it yet...

Got connectors in but the wire gauge was really small & they were advertise as for brake cutoffs. Reordered from the guy who advertised here & hope those are bigger. Made a makeshift connection with some needles just so I could use it in the meantime. May do a taillight too some time down the...

This is a custom profile to get 80% charge on the 52v 19.2aH battery. The Satiator closest preset is 85% I think 56.6v. That makes sense though I wonder if they could've compensated for that somehow with some programming.

So the reading on the bike is 54.5v while the charger says 55.4 & the meter shows 55.3.

I've been noticing nearly a little more like up around 0.7v which makes me wonder what i should believe the charger or the bike?

I wonder if I should do the same on my recently acquired CCX. I did have to do something similar on my original CC after several thousand miles. Only I used zip ties with one near the connector area & tight enough to prevent the battery from moving but with enough give to slide it off.

Bought online from one of the German bike shops. This is made in Germany & feels like half the weight of the stock light. Waiting on Higo connector from Ebay & then Harbor Freight for some cheap tools & waterproof connectors to make the connection.

So far I've only managed around 32mph in R mode & haven't felt like I would out spin the crank. Above 30 mph takes quite a bit of effort.

https://support.juicedbikes.com/hc/en-us/articles/360019705132-Adjusting-the-Chain-Catcher-Chain-Spotter

Haven't fully dropped a chain, but have felt it jump briefly. Going to swap to a narrow wide chainring I was using on the CC so I won't need the chainkeeper, but after paying $2200 for the CCX I'd like to get everything it was advertised as coming with.

This will play well with the CCX? Requires at least 7.5 W nominal output of the drive system's light connection Then it's just a matter of connecting the leads? I googled that m99 and nope at $500+.

Yours is missing the chainkeeper too I see.