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The original links are broken but content is still there. See here https://forums.electricbikereview.com/threads/replacement-controller-options.37882/post-514997

That is a Julet (Z910) 9 pin Motor Connector. You can find them at AliExpress or Amazon.

See this thread for details.

This controller is fully sealed and out in the airflow, it won’t overheat. It’s bigger than the stock controller so won’t fit in the downtube and is MUCH better the the stock controller—more power, better PAS, simpler wiring, color display, USB port on display, etc. 28 MPH on level ground...

That's next on the list. The box behind the seatpost is an upgraded 25A controller.

Is it even a Lectric XP 1.0 anymore.

I have a 1.0 XP and it does NOT use a bolt through-axel design. I've never seen a 2.0 step-thru in person but I highly doubt that there would be a "bolt through-axel" on a hub motor. That being said, see here.

That's interesting. I've had the controller cut the power to the motor when my battery was really low but I've never had it totally shut down. My battery at the time was really low and only occurred with extended throttle use. I haven't done it yet, but I'm considering modifying C4 from 4...

They did this and continue to do this for the oil companies why do we just move those funds?

Not exactly cheaper, but definitely better. See here.

Hmm, I guess I never noticed (paid attention) to that verbiage from the KT controller. That being said, since I always have my lights on, even in the daytime, I’ve run the headlight, taillight, USB charging for my phone and the horn on this circuit with no damage to the controller. I did this...

48 volts x .25 amp is 12 watts. You can get very good lighting from an LED consuming 12 watts. But I’ve been told that the limit for the KT lighting circuit is 1 amp or 48 watts. I’m not sure if that 1 amp is for both front and rear as my KT controller has outputs for both but as I have this...

ALL the connector ends on this controller are “waterproof.” ALL wires leaving this controller are gel sealed. ALL openings to this controller have a rubber gasket. While I wouldn’t suggest immersing it in water, for all practical purposes, it’s “waterproof.”

Actually I AM! I am using the standard KT controller light output. This is why I have inserted the 1amp fuse to prevent the light/horn from pulling too much current. After power on, I use the UP arrow to turn on the light, I can then turn them off/on via the light/horn switch. The KT light...

Crack!? I think you are looking at a reflection. NO Crack!

I have lights connected to the KT Controller on my Lextric XP. Works real well. See here.

I have an externally mounted KT controller on my Lectric XP and it's been through a few wet spots and left out in the rain a few times and I've have had no issues with it. See here.

Here is what I use. Dual purpose "reflector."

Since I swapped out my OEM controller and display for a new controller and display with integrated USB port, I've updated (simplified) my headlight wiring diagram. Ebike E-Bike 12V 24V 36V 48V 60V 72V Electric Bicycle Light/Horn Set Handlebar M6 Screw Cycling Clip Clamp

With the updated controller and display with integrated USB port, the 1 T 5 cable allowed me to move the light up high. I had already replaced the crappy OEM light with an LED Light/Horn set that operated from 12-72 volts. With a Handlebar Cycling Clip Clamp, I was able to place the light at...