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When you say "locks up", do you mean the rear wheel refuses to turn and you skid to a stop, or that a lot of drag is coming from the rear wheel? Do you get any error code from the display? Regardless, just as a sanity check I would check every connection in the wiring harness, especially the...

Since you want to ride mainly without assist, keeping the bike's weight down is a major consideration. Have a look at the reviews of e road bikes, and also consider e "gravel" bikes. You mentioned carpal tunnel from drop handlebars, but some of the reviewed e road bikes have flat handlebars. You...

I hate doing that, I think those little throttle tweaks are heavy hits to the battery's range. I'd rather ride it out until I have enough pedal rotation that I can downshift. But if I'm crossing a dicey intersection or going uphill...

It actually might pull more weight for it's rated power consumption at lower speeds if it is a geared hub drive, as most are. Geared hubs put out their max torque at lower and mid rotation speeds and the torque drops off as you approach their rotation limit speed (about 28 mph for me). But the...

They do, and the battery measures 54.2v after the monthly full balancing charge whereas it's 53.7-53.9 near the end of the month after a full charge. And yeah, personally I don't worry too much about hyperlifeing the battery, though I do wait an hour after getting home before charging, and try...

Good details, but if I can condense my question: if it is suboptimal due to cell temp (damaging to battery lifetime) to charge it to full and immediately go on a ride, or to bring it home after a ride with cells hot from discharging and right away plug in the charger, then wouldn't it also be...

I'll second the suggestion you look at two wheel hub drive bikes. BTW, the mid-drive vs. single hub better at climbing hills is a trope. Regardless, consider the overall weight that will be on the bike after loading the deer, and what the rack weight limits are for whatever racks you are...

Good to hear there are chargers available to the hyperlifers that are less pricey than the grin satiator. But my question remains, for those of us who have an allegedly good battery with a cheapass 2 amp charger, when we are doing the instructed monthly extra six hours' balancing charge, would...

So, reading various posts about hypermiling one's charging regime to milk the most lifetime range out of your battery, I have to wonder if the standard practice (with some vendors) of balance charging is sub-optimal. The instructed practice is to, approximately every 30 days, charge your battery...

I use everything from 2-6 out of 7 gears on every ride (mostly a five mile each way commute with one hill). I downshift to 3 at every stop and gear up from there as speed increases. If I'm feeling my oats and have a bunch of green lights lined up might use gear 7 and sustain low 20s (mph) with...

I do have a 69lb bike (rear hub drive) and have had to get it up the stairs when the elevator went out. Most rear hub drives come with a walk mode, where the controller applies about enough juice to get you moving at 6mph on the level if you were riding it. Plenty to push the bike up the stairs...

To hit that price point with that kind of motor and battery makes me think the price may be subsidized by a google-x investment: here's some cash and lets see how fast you can grow. Regardless, fascinating to hear about those kind of specs at that price.

I know of one guy who wrapped his (non-electric) bike's frame in duct tape (yes, I know, that's really gaffer tape). Who wants to steal a bike where you'll be spending six hours de-gumming the frame? Plus you can't see the brand name.

The stock throttle does have a cutout button, but I don't know if that would be sufficient to meet your needs. It is trivial to re-enable it mid-ride. Another option would be an aftermarket controller where you can disable the throttle in software. Takes a bike reboot and about 20 seconds of...

Any ideas for repurposing the rubber from worn out 26x4 fat tire knobbies? If cut crossways, the patches would be almost 12 inches wide by however long is needed, about a quarter inch thick soft rubber. Still enough tread left for traction in making non-skid pads. Also has a very luminous...

You've priced it well. You could also list it in the for sale by owner forum here, and on bicyclebluebook.com.

There's a radpower forum here, you might get more response there. Why change cables? Are you adding more risers to the stem? https://electricbikereview.com/forums/forum/rad-power-bikes/

2400 miles on the rears, 2000 miles on the fronts, original radrover pads. I do need to adjust the brakes about every 400 miles, usually just a partial turn on the inner pad adjustment does it. Urban biking with a stop about every 0.5 miles.

That last guy needs to follow up with "...and that was your fault!" But... add the side by side cruisers deep in their conversation.

For long term storage it is recommended to charge to 40-60%, not 80%. If you don't have a voltage display just time how long it takes to do a full charge from near empty, and take 60% of that. Not perfect, but good enough. You don't have to be perfect on this.