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When you are based in the boater mecca that they are, you make boat bikes ....

Ann, I am a very big guy and the T12 is more size appropriate. Think football lineman size. That particular PonE was designed on the T8 frame, which means 8" rear tires. More to the point it is only 350 watts and I wonder if I can climb inclines with it. I do thank you for the thought, but...

That is interesting. I am a little skeptical of the one size fits all really well pitch, but, it is worth a hard look. I want my standup over powered idiocy for myself (I have an Izip Express), but, my wife is talking about a more normal trike for herself. I will definitely be interested in...

I received the second meter with the 50 amp shunt today. The answer to the question that no one but me is asking is yes they are the same case. The shunt on the 20 amp above is where I suspected it was and that is in the blob of solder. (Link Removed - No Longer Exists) (Link Removed - No...

Not surprising, I didn't see a Trikke forum, so, mods place where you feel it is best. I have a Trikke T12 and at my weight, I can't get it to move more than 30 feet and forget it at the slightest incline. Hand it over to small person and off they go ... @#*&@! I am planning on the 1000 watt...

OK, that is more what I thought. The Express has zero speed information that I can see going to the "black box", so, I don't know how the bike could govern. The belt driven hub has three speeds and no electrical connection, so, it couldn't use motor shaft rpm and that is its only connection.

So do all bikes that list the 28mph have a limiter on them? I ask the question as I have an Izip Express, but, I am fairly sure that when capable from weight loss/shape increase, that I could go past it.

Doesn't the speed limit in the EU equate too 16mph

Ravi, could you not just add a PCB (http://tinyurl.com/q86drgz) for what the cells are and change to a charger (http://tinyurl.com/pkkbwt9) for that PCB? Or if there is no room to add a PCB, you could use a balance charger from the R/C industry and set it for exactly what you need. I use this...

(Link Removed - No Longer Exists) (Link Removed - No Longer Exists) I opened the meter for two reasons, 1 to see if much would be gained just by re-casing the board and 2 to see if I could remove the 20 amp shunt for relocation. Not being able to see anything that isn't obvious on a circuit...

I just did a research binge on the Internet and there is a lot to know about poly-carbonate. Now that I am a couch expert on the stuff, I am going to score and break it like I first thought, but, with the knowledge that it is going to be way harder than I thought. J.R. we do have the plastics...

You have an excellent point regarding the smaller wires for a remote shunt. Well I don't think this design precludes the use of the remote shunt version, as it sure looks like they all use the same case. I know enough to be dangerous with electronics, but, what I know tells me that I have...

We will see ..., my great fear is that the Lexan will reflect light in such a manor to make it hard to read.

I did find that I can buy small sheets of Lexan at the hardware store. They all seem to be 0.093 in thick, so, I inset an area to silicone in a Lexan window 44.5 mm x 65 mm and I didn't have to make it taller. With the very short throw front push button with lithium grease (very high melting...

Some screen shots of the case I am going to print. I may still make it taller as I want to go to the hobby store and see what i can get in clear plexiglass to place as a windshield. I may end up placing an o-ring for the flexible edge it has now (Link Removed - No Longer Exists) (Link...

Well, I now know that my system shuts down at 30.7 volts .... I like that they choose a higher PCB shutoff than I am used to seeing percentage wise. If you read the Li-ion information you would conclude that you can discharge below 30 volts for a pack this size. The significant drop curve...

OK, I will give up the water resistance for now as I don't ride in the rain anyway. Kind of sucks a bit on the wattage re-set, but, it was the instantaneous use that I was more interested in. Still better than a big red meter you can't read ...

George, I have the part. Can I assume that you never really have to touch it once it is set up? My thought is a case with a clear plexiglass face and an on/off switch down low and too the side, but, if you have to mess with it, that would not work.

You must put out massive power if you need the 100 amp! Just kidding as I know you were probably thinking better safe than sorry. I should have it by Monday and then I can design a quick little case / mount for it and wire it up. My thoughts are in the center of the bars like the Rad Rover...

OK, it isn't as bad as I first thought. I only turn it on when I want the info and that is only in the shade, so, it works. I am going to redo the entire exercise with this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017FSED9I/ref=as_li_tl?tag=proeng-20&keywords=digital+multimeter It is way bigger...