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Here you go. It's not the best picture but hopefully its a place to start. I used 4 or 5mm neoprene. Nylon one one side, some textured grip on the other. FYI the top and bottom of the picture are purposely not straight lines. This helps the cover get around the controller... partially at least...

I think it's working pretty well. I haven't used the bike much below 45F, without the cover, but happened to forget to put it on the other day when it was in the upper 30s F during the evening after dark. I noticed a drop in range compared to when the cover is on. It's the only "test" case...

Ok, thanks for the suggestion - ill check out the ratios. I think a 44 might still get me the top end speed I want, at least for now.. then I can swap out the rear cassette down the road if I need to. As for the rubbing, I think was all the front side when I was trying to just use the 48t on the...

Has anyone gone 1x8, or something like that with closer to a 48t chainring? I was thinking of doing this. I never use the bike offroad, only on road to get from point A to B so the higher speed gears are most useful. Since the front is 28-38-48, I put it in the 48, ignored the chain rubbing and...

If you're only getting 20 miles on a charge, unless you are going straight uphill the entire time, something sounds wrong with your battery. In the summer, without tire liners, I would get mid 50s at normal assist strength and PAS 4. Now, with tire liners and temps in the 40s and 50s I still do...

Well - went ahead and made something. Mostly happy with how it came out, although I wish I put the ends more on the bottom for looks, but that doesn't matter too much. The only downside to this was cost. $35 for a 2x2 foot sheet of neoprene (nylon one one side and textured rubber on the other)...

It's pretty easy to take off. Two buckles that are a little annoying because you end up buckling them under the rack, between it and the tire, but I mean this still only takes 30 seconds to do... if that once you do it a few times. There's also a velcro strap that goes through part of the rack...

Nice! I put the same exact bag on the back, except the black one. Love it! Fits the bike's look really well.

Congrats on the new bike. The rear hub motor is totally independent of the gears when it runs it's essentially like you're on a normal bike going downhill. The lowest gears won't get you anywhere, you'll just spin your legs. With that said, the motor has some pep to it so there's really no use...

I have an NCM Moscow+, which is a 500w hub drive and it does well around here in the Burlington area but it does struggle up steeper hills. Nothing you cant peddle through with a lot of help from the motor, so I am happy with the bike. But... With the bigger hills out your way I'd definitely...

Hello! Well I can't get a ton of info about a neoprene cover to put over the battery for the winter, so I'm designing one myself. I spent a bunch of time trying to figure out the dimensions and made a prototype the other day, cutting out an old sheet which actually fit pretty well. The only...

Has anyone bought this? https://www.amazon.com/FAHRER-Akku-eBike-Battery-Cover/dp/B07656Y8QM/ref=sr_1_9?dchild=1&keywords=bike+battery+cover&qid=1599851221&sr=8-9 I'm trying to figure out if it will fit the Moscow+. It looks short and a little tight, but maybe the tightness doesn't matter...

I think it's just the nature of the bike. The rear is really heavy compared to the front and the motor has a lot of torque. Maybe try weighing the front down some, although that can also create new problems with the front wheel wanting to whip around when you turn. For what it's worth I find...

Interesting. I probably don't want to go through that if it's not going to make a difference. I wonder if it's a software issue that they'll fix at some point.

yeah, ditto. That's broken.

Can you mount or strap a phone on the bike and record it? It might help for some of us to hear it. I can tell you with the oscillation of the motor there are some strange noises you'll get now and again (even without much power, and without feeling a vibration) but they are usually quick...

That seems a little extreme. I've seen small fluctuations when the PAS is pumping a consistent voltage, but usually anything on the more extreme side is right after the PAS goes from full power to nothing. I think during that massive drop in power the sag is always less than 1V and generally...

Ok, I guess it's good that it's not something that is starting to fall apart. Thanks for letting me know!

Hi - just bumping this to see if anyone knows an answer to a question. Does this seem like degradation at all, or is it just the way it always worked? I notice it now more, but I'm not sure if it's just in my head or if it's always done this. I noticed the other day I slowed to around 10 before...

If it is truly a sound from the motor, I haven't experienced that. I can tell you I get a vibration that you can feel and hear somewhat that carries through the frame under the same conditions you describe and maybe around the same interval... very occasionally. I have about 1000km on the bike...