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Sweet. Can’t wait to see the finished product.

I think this is more people replying to the OP. The people to respond don’t always check the OPs location. I do agree, the rider should know the laws and regulations regarding their location. On the other hand, how many drivers actually know the traffic laws?

Damn, I can’t smoke then do run. Unless it’s hours later, when I come down. I wish I could. Vado messes with my rhythm. I need to be clear minded so I can focus on breathing along with my foot steps and I can feel my heart rate. I do lots of self checks. My When I’m high in the Vado smoke, my...

You can remove the display. Only problem is that you’ll be confined to full power, full time. With the device you have on your throttle, this may be ok for you. Your controller may have come with a plug that shorts 2 sets of wires. One of those shorts, you run to a key switch. Then that will be...

5 mile morning run, then a fat Vado roll. Very nice!

That is really REALLY bad. Higher charging voltage is a quick way to kill a lithium battery.

If PAS won’t engage the motor, then the problem isn’t the throttle and further testing and isolation is required. There are some unknowns as to what conditions the throttle stops working. Did the throttle start working the next day? Was this under heavy load? Was the bike in the rain the...

What was the battery voltage when the throttle was working? What was the voltage before the motor quit? It could be that your controller reached low voltage cutoff while ascending. The battery, depending on cell quality, will sag. For reference, my battery sags about 4 volts when going up a 16%...

Stickers don’t usually mean much. A 750 watt sticker is just an identifier for the bike to enter the country. Other countries you could see a 250 watt sticker. My controller can provide 1200 watts. I could get a 48v 750 sticker on eBay and be compliant for the officer. If they were interested...

…but the manman started it. Lol

You should be good. Seems like most 750 watt motors come with a 22A controller. Are you replacing an existing controller? That'd be the best way to know. Your battery has 21 AH, probably at least a 30A BMS. Just a guess though. Do you have more info on the battery? cell type? BMS?

The 3rd party quality check is a great move, but do they normally do that on site? Imagine working there, you work hard and earn it. Then, you see someone getting paid to check your work. They might be your cousin, but still would feel weird.

I’ve had a 700 series for three years now. It’s been a great bike! I’ve changed the controller and display and have added some other things, but mechanically, the bike is original. I’ve got nothing bad to say about the bike and have recommended it to other people. This is great insight.

Ebike displays don’t normally have the actual time. Instead, it’s a timer, the time the bike has been on for that particular session. Maybe you already have it, but here is the manual for your bike.

Another way. There should be a single, thick, cable coming from the controller. Perhaps you can gain more slack at the handlebars by tracing that cable out. I’m sure it’s bunched somewhere. Pull that cable more to the handlebars and you’ll gain more slack on everything. This thick cable may be...

55.7 is very high for a 48v battery. A 48v battery is 100% at 54.6.

This might be the thing to try first. :)

I have a voltage read out on my display. When going uphill, I may see up to 4 volts drop. Voltage drop is normal. To account for this drop, I usually charge my battery when it gets to about 50%, roughly 47-48 volts. For reference, I have a 48v battery.

Some thing similar happened to my bike (Ride1Up 700). The throttle acted just as you are describing. At first glance, the JST connection at the controller looked fine. I pulled the connector apart and I quickly saw the defect. Wire had slipped out of the connector. I was able to replace the pin...