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an option: Grin Tech offers cut-off switches that can be added to any levers and use the mechanical operation of the levers. According to the video instructions on the Grin Tech site, they are an independent product that Grin Tech makes available for adapting levers without a built-in cut-off...

I'm interested in this question too since I'm deciding whether to set up a drop-bar build I'm doing with brake switches or not. I read comments on EBR from riders with experience building e-bikes they do not find brake switches necessary nor use them. An extra question that may only apply to a...

Thanks Alaskan, that's the main concern I have about 12sp on this conversion. I have a lot of experience running sub-12 high-cog-count chains, and overall have found 9sp and 10sp chains to be, if anything, more durable on non-assist push-bikes than 8sp chains. But as you say, that doesn't take...

Interesting suggestion which I've thought about since seeing Grin has a front hub motor I like. But my reason for getting e-assist on this fatbike would be to make if more useful on the road. I like the non-assist push-bike set up fine for the offroad I do on it, but want e-assist to use it on...

Thanks, good to know there is a source for steel microspine freehub bodies. I will look for one. It didn't occur to me when I ordered microspline (for the 10-51 range on a loaded push-bike) back in the spring I'd already be planning an e-bike conversion on it. If I'd thought ahead, I might have...

Re @AHicks reference to the Balloon tire size (which starts around 50mm by my reckoning): On the hub conversion I'm building, I can use 40mm to 48mm under the fenders. Easily 60mm if I removed the fenders (dry climate where I am). The reason I'm leaning toward the narrower 40-48mm widths is my...

Mango, what width M. E-Plus do you use, and how do you compare it in ride/efficiency/durability to the M. Supreme and M. Plus? Did you run those in the same width as the E-Plus? I'm assuming the E-Plus is the same Marathon as the Plus but with a harder more durable rubber compound. That's a guess.

This. What rawlus describes also means when the calipers retract they both move away from the rotor, so they can be set up just a little further from the rotor which results in much less chuff-chuff-chuff-chuff. You often hear that with mechanical discs (the common Avid mechanical disc brakes...

When choosing tires for an e-bike do you try to balance between durability and speed/efficiency? (for ordinary paved road use, about 40-50mm wide tire) Or should you go straight for durability and flat-resistance since you have the extra assist to overcome a stiff, slower, but durable tire...

The Juintech hybrid hydraulic brakes are also made in a version by Yokozuna who have both two-piston and four-piston versions. Keep in mind these Juintech design brakes have the stopping advantages of hydraulic action at the caliper end (where your wheel/rotor is) but they don't have the...

thanks for the info. yes, using one of the Phaserunner controllers and CA3. Interesting to learn how you have to set up the controller to give you the chance to apply some power to the pedals. If I'm understanding it correctly, it's easy for a strong hub motor to be set up out of the box to...

Have you used a cable actuated hydraulic piston brake?

It's what they make muffler bearings and knibbler pins out of.

I use both full hydraulic and also hydraulic actuated by cable pull, multiple sets of each, and the modulation is equally good in both (hydraulic) types. Longevity seems the same in each too, but nothing's worn out on either type (except pad wear) over 5 years I've had them. Hand force required...

Will soon be building a geared-hub conversion (GMAC) so I'll know more about what to expect for climbing and sustained climbing on a hub drive. I'll also know more about how it feels to use PAS with hub-drive since my only ebike experience so far is a torque-sensing Bosch mid-drive. The future...

All my disc brakes are hydraulic. Thread title makes no sense. Did the original poster intend to compare hydraulic discs with mechanical discs, as posters are crediting?

If 2000w is marginal on such a heavy bike (with hub-motor), it must be limiting for steep climbing / sustained climbing even more than it limits top speed or range(?).

Would you (and/or @PedalUma) say this advice for building/converting a steel frame bike applies to a hub-motor conversion too? Or is does the advice to limit the amps/current apply mainly to a mid-drive conversion where the motor is pulling the chain and yanking hard on chainstays and bb not...

Also heard from them myself. Thanks for the responses. I like Grin Tech's products and their approach (and have learned a ton from Justin's videos and their other educational stuff) so I'm glad they seem to be going strong.

considering a mid-drive BBHDS(?) conversion of a bike with a micro-spine cassette hub that has a 12sp cassette. After conversion I won't need 12 speeds of course, and won't need as much of that range either. But it would be really good to have a durable cassette to use with the mid-drive. Anyone...