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I would use a jacketed, 2-conductor, stranded, 18 AWG cable. This is the cheapest I could find on Amazon, but it comes with a lot more than you'll need. https://a.co/d/4NGGyu0 You could probably get away with speaker cable if you had any around, and could encase it in shrink wrap if you...

Hello, I had one lying around, so I just created a pinout for it. As it turns out, there are only two conductors. If you can get a hold of the connectors and the shells for the connectors, you should be able to make one up for less than what Stromer is charging.

When it comes to the tubular locks on Stromers, they are NOT easily defeated. For example, the cheap Chinese 3 piece (7.0mm, 7.5mm, 7.8mm) cylinder lock sets that you see on Ebay, Aliexpress, ect. will not fit in these locks. Stromer uses a Camlock Systems series 28 lock which actually uses an...

I have upgraded my original ST2s rigid fork to a suspension fork. The easiest way to do this is to track down an original ST2 suspension fork. I'm not sure that Stromer USA still has upgrade kits to sell, but I found a used example in fairly good condition. The OEM part that Stromer used on the...

I'd imagine that the specific torque settings that Stromer has recommended have to do with the design of the plates that their TMM's are mounted in. I don't know if would translate to other company's designs. As for the bikes, I'm still in the thick of it. I've disassembled the ST2s down to...

Have you re-tourqued the TMM4 sensor plate as described in this thread? https://electricbikereview.com/forums/threads/tips-to-improve-tmm4-torque-sensor-reliability.37699/

Pretty much all of the parts have value. You can part it out here, or list the individual parts on Ebay. Personally, I am looking for a suspension fork and set of fenders, but other parts like batteries, lights, frames, wiring, chargers, controllers, displays, cranksets, seats, and other parts...

It's good to hear that they've fixed the placement of the DI2 charge port. If I were starting from scratch, I would seriously consider getting an ST5.

Yes. You can charge the DI2 battery by connecting the Shimano interface cable directly to the flappy USB port on the front of the bike.

I have an ST2s. I thought about upgrading, but in my case, I don't believe that it warrants the expense. My original OMNI started misbehaving, so it was replaced under warranty for an OMNI-C. The only other advantages to upgrading would be the larger wheels, a lightly more powerful motor and a...

There was a design flaw with the motor cable on the first batch of ST2's. The lines carrying the hall sensor signals would become compromised, resulting in motor shuddering. There are several existing posts in this forum that speak to this issue. I have verified that this is my problem by...

I don't need an entire ST1, but if you ever decide to part it out, there are several individual parts I could use.

I left a message with their US contact number (800-819-4262). Here's hoping that I receive a response.

Unfortunately, most of the important parts on a Stromer (unless they are manufactured by other companies like Shimano, Magura, etc) are proprietary and are only available directly through authorized Stromer dealers or on the used market. I diligently scour the used market (eBay, etc.) on a daily...

I have an older, out of warranty Stromer ST2 (<2018) that is out of commission until I can order a few parts for it (I'm primarily in need of a new motor cable). I have called around to several of the names listed on Stromer's authorized dealer list (including popular vendors like Crazy Lenny's...

One of my ST2's (out of warranty) is displaying the dreaded 'motor shudder' issue. Luckily, I have a second ST2, and was able to eliminate the motor itself as the problem by swapping the rear wheel between both bikes. The shudder happens with both rear wheels on the bad bike, and with neither...

If anyone would like to pull out a multimeter and draft up a pinout diagram, that would be swell, too. I can make my own.

Actually, that looks almost exactly like mine did. The two tabs on the end are the positive and negative. The are about 1/2" shorter than the tabs on the original battery, and I remedied that by the process described above.

I took a few photos for my own reference, but there already exists a great documentation of a teardown here. The two black caps come off each end with some patient and gentle persuasion with a flat end screwdriver or two. Once the caps are removed, you can push on one end, and the innards come...

I've done it. After looking for options to replace the battery in my ST1, I found three common options... - Buy new (crazy expensive) - Have someone refurbish it for me (still pretty expensive) - Buy cells and spot welder and try it on my own (cheaper but unknown learning curve involved) I...