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Hi, My derailleur cable is rusted and needs replacing. I also find myself mostly using the highest gear and using the battery and pedaling to get myself up to speed. Is there a way to remove the derailleur and use the bike in a single speed with the cassette in place? Or there conversion kits...

What type of grease do you recommend? The springs are exposed to air and dust etc., under the cloud 9 seat.

I have the same issue with a rad mini 4. What is a better stronger foldign handlebar stem one can buy for the rad mini 4?

What's the socket size required to remove the rear wheel?

I've emailed RAD regarding the rear cassette tool, they responded saying they do not provide such tool. Any alternatives out there? Would a car spark plug socket work? What size is the rear socket on the rad-mini4?

What size is the socket? Tooking for a similar tool for my radmin4, any options out there?

Also options on aliexpress. But is this still the best option as far as fit, for the radmini4?

I have a radmini4, I've swapped the front crank to a 56t. But the cadance is still to fast. Want to recuce it. Is this the product you guys are referring to here, (DNP Epoch Freewheel: 7 Speed 11-28T Nickel Plated). Seems a little pricey at $93. Or is there something of a better fit now?

I've miscalculated distance on my ebike twice, and took the battery till it turned off. I assume the BMS tuned it off. Since there is a safety feature on the BMS, how detrimental is this to the battery?

What do you consider a full charge? As you've mentioned you don't take it below 40%? So you are only using 40% battery capacity at a time. As you've said you only charge to 80%.

How do you keep track of charge cycles? I mean I know how much I've ridded on my bike in km, but how would that translate to charge cycles?

There a way to compensate for that? I'm looking at a second battery for my radmin4 (stock 48v battery). Wondering if I should get a 52 volt with the KT-LCD8? Or if that would be wasteful due to the incorrect cut off.

Also have a 500 watt canadian version, have the rad-mini. Can you share your settings? My pass sensor is also not working, will try your suggestion.

I have a radmini4, 500 watt geared motor. The noise is not noticeable in the city, but on a quiet road it is. It's loud. There anyway to reduce noise or silence these motors? Would One have to build an enclosure around it? Or just buy a quitter motor?

@Timpo, thanks for all the info will order a set of the reds.

So what are the pros and cons? Debating between the following: TEKTRO E10.11 - organic resin TEKTRO P20.11 - metallic\ceramic resin Wondering if the are much P20.11 and if they eat away the rotor much faster? Also when purchasing brakes do you need to replace the stainless spring every time...

When replacing brakes do you need to replace the metal sprint retainer pin every time or is it optional? See not all brakes come with it.

Found this: https://www.tektro.com/upload/Product/F_20170613131999DtkdK8.PDF E is organic where as the P are metal-ceramic resins. Do you find the metal-ceramic resin louder when braking? Anyone can confirm is the metal-ceramic resin eats away the rotor much faster?

Did you have to replace your brake rotors yet? Wondering when brake rotors also need replacing. My bike is only at 1500 miles, so have some time. From an earlier video in this thread, there was a chart of organic, semi-metallic, and metallic. Seems the metallic eat the rotor away the fastest...

What does the E10.11 A30 mean on the pad? Is that a size, compound?