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It should make the traditional bike bell sound, just blast it at 100x volume.

$3500 for a 10 kWh unit, so $350/kWh. I so wish Mr. Musk would start making bike batteries.

You mean the pedaling torque or cadence sensor that gives gas to the engine, right?

Sweet! See ya on the bike path with my modded Sportster.

Highly illogical. If a lightweight e-bike with a 200W motor has a throttle, does that make it not a bicycle? If you remove the throttle from a Harley and add pedals that you turn to make it accelerate, does that make it a bicycle? Classifying vehicles by their power and weight instead of which...

It has only Tranzx branding, so maybe just their own reference design?

If you've got a $500 head, you wear a $500 helmet. If you've got a $300 head, you wear a $300 helmet. If you've got a Harley, you wear a bandana.

If I had a nickel for every announced breakthrough in battery technology...

Just because a throttle hurts the feelings of some luddites and when it comes to e-bikes, all legislation on state level and lower is based on nothing else.

I guess just letting the federal rules apply would be way too simple and sensible.

So it's about appearances and feelings, not logic.

Yes, and the logical line would be the speed that unassisted bikes often achieve on the road. It would also be logical that there would be a speed limit of 20 mph or lower for pedestrian / bike paths that everybody must obey and not just let lycra freaks race 35 mph on them.

What would be the logic, other than to punish "cheaters"? I thought speed limits are logically for safety reasons: does having electric assist or not make a difference if you hit somebody or something doing 25 mph on a bicycle? What exactly is the difference?

The speed capability limit of 20 mph is not logical, unless you also ban from bike paths every cyclist who can exceed 20 mph on a their non-electric bike.

Just an idea: would you consider exploring the chance to rebuild some other packs like e.g. the Tranzx one that's common to at least iZip, Diamondback and Raleigh? In a year or two there might be a considerable market for that if you could do it for half the price of a new battery.

It doesn't reduce the need for adjusting, it just makes the job quite a bit easier if the adjustment screw is not accessible with any normal tools without dismantling anything.

When I do that, I feel mostly smooth and steady fairly heavy resistance (like an overtightened bearing) with only extremely faint actual cogging mixed in. That can't be right, right?

See, that's what I imagined would be normal, but when I try to turn the axle not just with a couple of fingers but with the best grip I can, it takes effort, and with the bike off the ground it's impossible to spin the wheel more than a few rotations.

First I thought it was the normal cogging of a gearless hub motor but it seems to have gotten worse and doesn't seem reasonable: the bike is really heavy to pedal unpowered and when the wheel is off the bike, you can hardly turn the axle by hand. There's no rattling or grinding that would...

I'd like to understand the reason for those both. Is the removal needed just because of how the spokes go across each other?