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I don't care much for the giant logo that screams "ebike" to casual observers and overzealous constabulary, so I covered it with red tape.

I like the idea of using it as an accident cam more than anything. Recording on a loop, or clear the data after each ride. I find a handlebar mirror to be efficient and sufficient. One thing to be aware of, led headlamps may appear to flash when viewed via a camera, just fyi.

Mine does get warm. I set it up off the table on a pair of pliers to help air circulation around the charger

My bike makes the same vibration and noise as described by the other forum members in this thread. It has become slightly louder over time. At about 1k miles my back tire is holding up well, when it's time to replace it I intend to disassemble the hub for inspection, cleaning and lubrication...

A hoopy frood always knows where his towel is. You can use it to keep the sun off your seat, spread it on the grass to sit on, wrap it around you for warmth and even dry off with it.

Great article, I just upgraded my rear derailleur and the step by step instructions helped me get it dialed in.

Bruce is correct, 42 volts is 20%. I rarely get below 46 volts because of the loss of performance at that mark.

I believe 40 volts is 20%. If your bike is like my Crosscurrent S you'll notice the pedal assist and throttle functions start to drop off at about 46 volts. I assume the software is set up to ration power and extend range at lower charge levels.

51.5 volts

I charge to 80 or 85% for my daily commute and do a full balance charge about once a month. This is based on anecdotal evidence from other users and what I've read from more scientific articles on the subject. If I used my battery less often, I'd balance charge four times a year.

I commute to work four days a week. It's an eighteen mile round trip. The heat is really getting bad here now, so the peddle assist is more welcome than ever.

Juiced Crosscurrent S

Thanks to Reid for his advice on chain drops. I put a 36 tooth narrow/wide chain ring on and so far it seems to have fixed the problem. Save yourself some money and do the chainring before you bother with a guide (IMHO) The shifting feels much more precise and I can stand on the pedals now...

I put a little dielectric grease on the upper mounting surfaces of my battery to help it slide into place. I usually give it a bump with the heel of my hand to make it click in that last little bit

Not a penny.

I like the low profile of just being an old dude on a bike with a ratty milk crate. Nothing flashy to see here, just move along. And it provides lots of space for extra reflectors or tail lights, as well as a ton of bungee points. My wife crinkled her nose at it, but what could be more elegant...

I zip tied a milk crate onto the rack. With a few bungie cords I can haul almost anything. Not terribly stylish but neither am I

Thanks for the link, looks like this is the next logical step. I ordered the 56 tooth narrow/wide in something of a three prong attack. 1) Being larger, it should take up a small bit of chain slack. 2) The tooth design is intended to improve chain retention. 3) Raising the overall gearing means...

Yes, it gets between the ring and guard, just as you described. Is that your bike in the photo? Did the narrow/wide chainring solve the problem?

Hello Forum, My CCS has about 700 miles now, no problems except chain drop. I put on the aluminum chain catcher recommended on the Juiced site. This has eliminated drops toward the frame, but it drops toward my right foot when shifting to 9th gear. If I stop pedaling, shift, and slowly start...