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I did not notice a change in Q factor. Here are the BB30 cranks on my bike. The drive side arm has the small silver ring for the normal spider to attach to, but I did not feel any additional width. I did feel the immediate lightness of the cranks and being fare easier to spin up with being...

I have the Creo 1 with Di2 hack to shifter and the Creo 2. I do prefer the Shimano, but the SRAM Apex on the Creo 2 comp is actually really good. It is not possible to put Creo power on SRAM, but the Creo 2 must have a remote to operate the Mastermind TCU. As stock you get the two button...

Thread lock is a glue applied to the thread to stop it coming undone. It is stiffer than a normal bolt, but will undo with turning force. Once this bolt is loose, this is the one that needs to be backed out so it can be hit with thee mallet to dislodge the spindle as per the video. I am now...

The bolt is held in the lock thread, but it will undo with weight on it. Also found this video to show the spindle removal. Looks scary but done 3 of them now and dead easy

You need to undo the 3 silver star bolts on the back of the spider and the spider comes away as per the photo below. You the need to remove the spindle from the non drive side by undoing the bolt so it is proud and giving it a wack with a rubber mallet. You will then end up with 2 arms that...

My Creo 2 has walk mode, but only because I use the Levo remote over the Creo version. Look under my Garmin and you can see the remote mounted under there. This remote is far easier to use the extra pages on the Mastermind TCU and I find it nice and easy to switch power modes. This remote...

These will not fit a Creo 2. If you look at my photo above, the BB30 / dub interface is a wavy star shape. Not sure about the Creo 1 but I would be surprised if they did.

No worries. When the the cranks are dis-assembled, this is what you end up with. You need just the crank arms and these fit on the the motor as same as Dub interface. The drive side is a self extracting bolt, the non drive side is a fixed bolt. Grease the splines well on the non drive side...

Yea, these are the same as mine. Remove the spider as this is not needed and knock out the spindle from the non drive side as you need 2 separate arms

It take a fair whack from a rubber mallet. Back the bolt out a touch as it is this you are hitting to knock the spindle out. It does seem scary, but done 3 of them now and all have worked fine

Not a fan of the loose cable look either so will also stick with battery version

The type of remote can make a difference. I have the Levo remote on my Creo 2 (also had it on Creo 1 for a time to). This has a dedicated walk button and works fine on the Creo 1 and 2.

Where I was looking to do the same with the Creo (1 and 2), there are no obvious exit holes for a wire. I use an Ergon CF3 split carbon seatpost, so I am not going to go drilling holes in that. I like the radar up high as possible and behind the seat is ideal, such as the Specialized SWAT...

If you are not allowed to use the motor, is it worth removing the battery and save a few kilos?

Time to find some big hills and test it. Sub 1 to 1 is great for the steep stuff.

Yes, I knew it would be more awkward as will stay on just the one bike. I 90% ride my Creo 2, but do still use my Roubaix on occasions and want the Varia for that. If I am battery saving on the radar, I will leave the light off and use another as will go for 15 hours radar only (RTL515)

I was looking to do the same on mine. Where did you bring the wire out to connect to the Varia?

I can't imagine they would not be Ant+ / Bluetooth as other wise how would it sent to head unit they is not plugged into a bike. I did a quick search om eRVR315 and found the display unit advice as follows - - Provides visual and audible alerts to warn of vehicles approaching from behind -...

Have a look at Garmin's website for the eRTL615. They do the Shimano cable that is just 2 wires, positive and negative. End of the day, this is just a link to the battery. The other stuff is sent via Ant+